DIY: Rear Speaker Install - ModernCamaro.com - 5th Generation Camaro Enthusiasts
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Old 04-10-2011, 10:12 AM   #1
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DIY: Rear Speaker Install

I had a fun day. I installed some new 6x9 speakers. I used the new 6x9 adapters from www.subthump.com

http://subthump.com/Search-Results?k...a832ef0d7d4d86


Remove the rocker panel.


Remove the back seat. Start with the bottom part. You will need to pull up on the front part of the seat and then pull forward.



To remove the seatback you will fold the seat down and then look at the hinge you will see what I saw in the second photo. You will need two people to do this because it has to be done at the same time on both sides. Just push the silver piece back and lift the seatback up and out.




Now it is time to remove the lower interior trim piece. I started at the bottom front and worked my way to the back.



Next remove the back window trim. When you pull this off be careful their is a black clip that needs to be removed after you get this off. I think it is part of the airbag system.



Now remove side window trim. You will need a 7mm socket and T50 torx bit. There are two screws. One is hidden under the "Airbag" piece above the seatbelt for the front seat and the other is by the back window. You will need the T50 torx to remove the front seatbelt. After you have all of the screws removed just pull on the piece and it will pop out.



Now the real fun beggins. The rear speaker deck. There are four push tabs on the front part that need to be removed. Once you have them removed get under the speaker deck in the trunk and you will see four push pins that need to pushed up.



Here is the underside, You can see the four blue push pins. This is what is holding this piece in place. I worked my hand between the deck trim and the sheetmetal and pushed up on the deck trim and they came out.



At this point the rear deck trim still did not want to come out. If you look at the photo (below). You can see three of the four tabs that hold this in place. I just had to pull hard to get this to come out.



Here is what it looked like after everything is out


You can see the factory speaker now. If you notice there is a big foam piece right next to each speaker. I'm not sure what this is for, but I think it helps to put pressure on the speaker deck. I would say do not remove this.



Installed Dynamat.



I installed the new speaker to the Subthump adapter. New and old.



Here is the speaker installed.


Just put everything back in the reverse order and your done. It took a few hours to do this, but it was worth it. The sound system sounded so much better. Next step will be amps and sub.

I did not take these photos, I stole this from another forum. I did this and thought you guys and gals would like to know how it was done. Total time was 2 1/2 hours from start to finish.

The hardest part for me was removing the two screw on the molding next to the glass.

I replaced my system with Rockford Fosgate 6x9 ways. The bass response is incredible. I have also replace my fronts with Rockfords 6.5 components, that was much easier to do.
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Old 08-12-2012, 08:41 AM   #2
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I know this is an old thread, hope my reply helps somebody else to find this helpful information. I can not thank you enough for posting this thread, this is exactly the info I needed, and I hope there are lots more like them for other similar projects.

This is what has to be done to get the whole rear window tinted, and or new rear deck speakers. I had tried to remove that rear deck panel without taking out the rear seats (didn't know better) and damaged/ruiened both the factory 6x9's. The rear deck WILL NOT lift up and out unless the all of the parts that you removed are done prior (starting with the rear seat).

If you get your rear window tinted or get the speakers changed, you now know how to do it right thanks to Stephens.

The advice about the 6x9" adaptors is 100% correct, don't try to change them out unless you get them, if you dry fit new aftermarket speakers, you'll know why.
Not only does it make them fit but they improve the speaker efficiency.

The Dynamat (or other sound deadening products) sounds like a good idea while your in there, but I wonder if it stops the metal part of the deck from rattling together.
I found one other thread which says the metal portions of the rear deck rattled bad from bass frequencies. I, having looked at it up close, saw a bunch of seams and the spot welding, it looked as if one could squeeze in some kind of calk or maybe use other sound deadening products to prevent them from rattling. I have used expanding foam allot and that would surely make it's way into hard to reach seams, but that stuff is difficult to work with especially in that type of position, suggestions? Of course to do that, the plastic deck should to be removed to make sure you get them all use sunlight or flashlight to find all the seams.

Again THANKS FOR THIS DIY!

Last edited by BUZZS20122LS; 08-12-2012 at 09:05 AM.
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Old 08-12-2012, 07:15 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BUZZS20122LS View Post
I know this is an old thread, hope my reply helps somebody else to find this helpful information. I can not thank you enough for posting this thread, this is exactly the info I needed, and I hope there are lots more like them for other similar projects.

This is what has to be done to get the whole rear window tinted, and or new rear deck speakers. I had tried to remove that rear deck panel without taking out the rear seats (didn't know better) and damaged/ruiened both the factory 6x9's. The rear deck WILL NOT lift up and out unless the all of the parts that you removed are done prior (starting with the rear seat).

If you get your rear window tinted or get the speakers changed, you now know how to do it right thanks to Stephens.

The advice about the 6x9" adaptors is 100% correct, don't try to change them out unless you get them, if you dry fit new aftermarket speakers, you'll know why.
Not only does it make them fit but they improve the speaker efficiency.

The Dynamat (or other sound deadening products) sounds like a good idea while your in there, but I wonder if it stops the metal part of the deck from rattling together.
I found one other thread which says the metal portions of the rear deck rattled bad from bass frequencies. I, having looked at it up close, saw a bunch of seams and the spot welding, it looked as if one could squeeze in some kind of calk or maybe use other sound deadening products to prevent them from rattling. I have used expanding foam allot and that would surely make it's way into hard to reach seams, but that stuff is difficult to work with especially in that type of position, suggestions? Of course to do that, the plastic deck should to be removed to make sure you get them all use sunlight or flashlight to find all the seams.

Again THANKS FOR THIS DIY!
X2 !!!
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Old 08-13-2012, 09:39 PM   #4
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Glad this helps you out.
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Old 06-04-2014, 07:07 PM   #5
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oh yeah, it's a real PITA, especially when your over 6' tall and 300# like I was when I did mine, my knees had bruises from doing it, I should have taken it to a shop,,

thank God crutchfield gives you great Instructions when you buy from them..

I wasn't too impressed with the subthump adapters, they worked but barely, but definitely get them because they are still better than the plastic freebies from crutch field.

I don't have any rattles unless you turn the bass up too high, didn't use any dynamat either...
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Old 06-05-2014, 05:27 AM   #6
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Great Job
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Old 06-05-2014, 08:26 AM   #7
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Good info.. they are definately a pain in the butt to replace.
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