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post #1 of 8 Old 04-12-2012, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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Engine question and feedback

Hey all, I have a few questions. I had gotten a motor 350 bored 30 over that was supposed to have been rebuilt. When I got the engine home, I pulled the head to check the cylinder walls and confimed a fresh bore. pulled a main bearing as well and those were new also. I buttoned it back up and put it in the car. I eventually got it put back together and started. It seem to run fine. I changed the carb (carter) to what was original (a qudrajet). The linkage on the carb was screwed up and it stuck WOT and an over-rev happend . Never ran right since. It would start and run but was backfiring out the exhaust. Found out the lifters collapsed on cyl 3, 5, and 7 and cupped them pretty bad but the rest look OK so I'm fairly certain it chewed the cam. Here is my question. If I put a new cam, lifters, and pushrods, inspected the timing set and replaced that also if needed, oil, filter, etc. and flushed the engine really good would this be a viable path? I mean, I could pull the engine and check it all, but if the lower end was OK...why pull it. Oil psi was good and I verified after the over-rev that it was still oiling since I tried to adjust the valves while it was running. My thought is if I put $160 to $200 in a cam kit and it runs fine, why bother pulling the whole engine. If something is wrong with the bottom end I'd end up pulling it anyway and I'd only be out that amnt as opposed to pulling it and going thru the whole thing. Is this just a bandaid or would this be a reasonable approach to take? Some feedback would be great cuz I'm torn on which direction to go. What do you all think?
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post #2 of 8 Old 04-12-2012, 03:13 PM
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On an over-rev that wrecked the lifters, as a minimum, I'd pull it and check the cam, pistons, cylinder walls, lifters and pushrods for damage. If any of them show damage, replace in sets. Better to check too much than too little. Oh, Drop the pan and check the crank too. You may have twisted it. I over-revved one of mine way back when I was young and stupid and twisted the crank and wore a cylinder wall oval.

I hope this helps.

James 1:25 Ordered from Faulkner Chevy #NKCF02 1100 5/8/9 2000, 3300 7/16/9 TPW 7/20,GOT MY (low) VIN! 4000 7/24/9 ,Picked up 8/7/9!!! Signed Litho #45. Car signed by FBodfather 2011. Service: Jennings Chevy in PA. We don't "drift", kiddies... we POWER SLIDE! MOTM/COTM Sept 2012 Pro Patria Vigilans.
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post #3 of 8 Old 04-13-2012, 07:34 AM
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It's one of those things where you have to be prepared for an earlier failure down the road if you don't inspect/rebuild the bottom end as well. The good thing about a bottom end failure is it usually "tells" you long before getting to the point it stops running and leaves you stranded.

If $ are tight, then do the top end as you have described and run compression and leak down tests... If all is well there, drive it and have fun til the bottom goes....

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post #4 of 8 Old 05-31-2012, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input from you all. I opted to go the long route and do it right. Here is the new engine just before I dropped it in. Used the Joe Gibbs break in oil and everything went well this time. She's purrin like a kitten now so I can start to concentrate on getting the body into paint. Finally!!! It feels good to hear that rumble too!
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post #5 of 8 Old 05-31-2012, 05:20 PM
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Wow! You didn't drive it like that, did you?



































just kidding.

Looks very good. I'm glad you took your time and did it right.

BTW: What did you find? Any hidden issues?

James 1:25 Ordered from Faulkner Chevy #NKCF02 1100 5/8/9 2000, 3300 7/16/9 TPW 7/20,GOT MY (low) VIN! 4000 7/24/9 ,Picked up 8/7/9!!! Signed Litho #45. Car signed by FBodfather 2011. Service: Jennings Chevy in PA. We don't "drift", kiddies... we POWER SLIDE! MOTM/COTM Sept 2012 Pro Patria Vigilans.
Click the pic.. I don't tolerate fools.
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post #6 of 8 Old 05-31-2012, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patriotpa View Post
Wow! You didn't drive it like that, did you?


No not really. Pretty much what I expected 4 lobes gone on the cam and 4 matching cupped lifters. There was no way I could bring myself to just stick a cam and lifeters in it and call it good so I went all brand new top to bottom. Expensive mistake but I will never forget and have certainly learned from.

She just had to much metal to even try and feel good about it. You know, it would have beeen like a little man standing on my shoulder whispering in my ear......you know what's coming don't you? Just couldn't do it!
































just kidding.

Looks very good. I'm glad you took your time and did it right.

BTW: What did you find? Any hidden issues?
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post #7 of 8 Old 05-31-2012, 06:32 PM
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Nasty!

I'm glad you got it taken care of.

James 1:25 Ordered from Faulkner Chevy #NKCF02 1100 5/8/9 2000, 3300 7/16/9 TPW 7/20,GOT MY (low) VIN! 4000 7/24/9 ,Picked up 8/7/9!!! Signed Litho #45. Car signed by FBodfather 2011. Service: Jennings Chevy in PA. We don't "drift", kiddies... we POWER SLIDE! MOTM/COTM Sept 2012 Pro Patria Vigilans.
Click the pic.. I don't tolerate fools.
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post #8 of 8 Old 06-03-2012, 11:40 PM
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Ouch overrev's can be brutal. My 2000 Z28 is still down because of one (actually my changine priorities has it still down). All the exhaust valves hit the pistons unbeknowest to me at the time as it still ran fine. Eventually the valve head broke off exploded the block and killed the LS1. Good luck though and glad to see it all together.

2000 Red 1SC Z28 A4 - dead for now
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