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post #1 of 34 Old 08-11-2010, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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Synergy Green Paint - A Follow-Up

I’m sure most of you remember the Can’t Match Synergy Green thread from a few weeks ago. I wanted to follow up and share my experiences and what I have learned with other Camaro owners and especially the SGM ones. Everyone has seen my recent threads with the pictures of Envy and some may have noticed that the hood still doesn’t match that great. I think it’s good…really good considering I won’t let them blend into the fenders…but not great.

I am posting this thread for informational purposes only. I am satisfied that my GM dealership has worked tirelessly to make this car right and perfect for me. So I don’t want to hear anything about any dealership. I just want to hear anyone’s thoughts on this subject and please feel free to correct/educate me further.

My original observations after the first two paint jobs on my hood were that the paint had an olive tint to it and that the fleck just seemed to sit on top and appear flat rather than multi dimensional like the rest of the car. The primer they used underneath these two paint jobs was gray, so when they finally started using a white primer, the olive cast went away (and I stopped crying). But the fleck in the paint has never looked like the factory paint and now I know why.

At the factory in Oshawa, our Camaros are painted with a water-based paint. And most paint shops, including my GM dealerships, still use solvent-based paints. I was also told that the SGM had gold fleck in the paint as well as in the clear coat when painted at the factory with the water-based paint. According to my source, this process cannot be replicated with a solvent-based paint. I welcome any discussion on this point from you paint guys out there. I never claimed to be an expert, just a person seeking answers…

I have decided to have the hood and trunk repainted at a later date when I can find the right shop that uses water-based paint and until then, I can live with what I have.

I do know that if I had had this information several months ago…I definitely would have done things differently.
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post #2 of 34 Old 08-11-2010, 06:57 PM
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you know girl i think you're onto something with the water based vs solvent based

i know jack crap about paint but i do know that after getting my trunk repained the water beads alot differently off of it then it does the rest of the car

really has me wondering how long the rest of the paint job is going to hold up

welcome to alberta we eat cow, drill oil and rope calves

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post #3 of 34 Old 08-11-2010, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Kitty View Post

really has me wondering how long the rest of the paint job is going to hold up
I really doubt that you have to worry about the paint holding up.

I had bought a 97 Z28 in June of '97 that was hit...bad....in the rear, in July of '98.

They cut out the rear quarter panel, replaced it, and finished it, and it still looked phenomenal over ten years later.

You gotta see Jack.
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post #4 of 34 Old 08-11-2010, 09:16 PM
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I watched a Car get painted Synergy Green last night and as I asked him afterwards was/is it really that hard to paint this color and get it right ?

Being an expierenced painter for 37 years he said NO its just the same as Red Tint Jewel yes its a stage paint but all in the prep and how its laid and it all comes with Expierence in painting.

Tonight I saw the same car and it was Freaking perfect in my opinion however guess what im sure if you stare for a while it may be off in some area's a tad thats just how painting goes.
This was a wrecked Green Camaro that got totally repainted.
imo it looks better now than factory did however with 7 coats of clear yeah its going to.

As long as you are happy Envy thats all that matters

I have not seen the car in person but im sure its right to some point now since you accepted it and seem to be happy with it for now.

I do think its cool they kept trying to get it correct until it was right.

Understand as Eric and Ozzy ( painter at classic ) and the painter who I saw paint a Green Camaro last night ( guy who painted my 69 )
They all said colors like Yellow , Green and Etc you are not going to get every single panel 100% the exact shade. I didnt realize this until I closely looked and noticed it in my car
( you gotta stare for a while to even notice it )



I would have had this guy paint my blackout when I got my car but he was away on Family sick leave so I had classic do it.
After seeing some of there work I knew I was in good hands.

Next time envy or anyone before letting someone paint a car look at there work and craftmanship.

Last edited by Jekyll-N-Hyde; 08-11-2010 at 09:20 PM.
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post #5 of 34 Old 08-12-2010, 12:02 AM
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Our cars have so many curves and angles the paint reflects light differently and makes the color intensity change and it looks to be a different shade in some spots. It is just how the light plays off of the paint. Envy got it right that the primer had to be white instead of gray to make the olive green go away. Plus different material (plastic, fiberglass, etc. do make a subtle difference in how it's painted. A real experienced body shop can usually handle these issues with no problems.

As for Kitty, the paint has nothing to do with the beading up of water on the recently painted part of the car. It is the wax that they put on after that makes the water bead up like that.

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post #6 of 34 Old 08-12-2010, 06:50 AM
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when i had a scratch fixed on my front fender, they did a good job painting and blending it, but if you look really close the flake on the fender and on the hood are not identical. they blended the door and just looking at it you cannot tell. only up close in direct sunlight. on top of that, the bumper's paint is as durable as a grocery bag! **** rock chips

kinda makes me want to have the entire exterior of the car repainted with many layers of clear coat, then wet sanded to have zero orange peel, and a clear bra put on... but that is probably about $10k worth of work on a depreciating $35k car...

from now on, i feel like any car i plan to collect i will have clearcoated and clear bra installed before taking it off the lot.

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post #7 of 34 Old 08-12-2010, 09:28 AM
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There are several grades of solvent based paints. Painting over a factory water based color usually isn't an issue, since the CLEAR COAT is solvent based.

The higher the grade of solvent based paint, the better the match. If the shop uses low grade cheap paint, the result will be, well, POO.

We use good grade PPG products and haven't had any issues, and we've done IOM and RY. We will be doing Synergy Green next week, so stay tuned!

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post #8 of 34 Old 08-12-2010, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jekyll-N-Hyde View Post
Next time envy or anyone before letting someone paint a car look at there work and craftmanship.
JnH is absolutely right. Months ago, 15+ years experience sounded good to me, this was the experience level of my car's painter...but I've learned a lot since since then and I'm thinkin' 30+ years sounds a lot better to me now. And the quality of their work is good...I just didn't think to really examine their metallic work. I looked at blacks, whites and a yellow vette but no metallic repair work.

As a good friend of mine told me recently, "I usually do things wrong at least once before I get it right."
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post #9 of 34 Old 08-15-2010, 09:40 AM
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My first bad experience with paint matching issues was a long time ago with my new metalic blue 1969 Chevelle SS. That car eventually looked like a rainbow of colors. Right from the factory, the front nose panel did not match the rest of the car. After three repaints, it never matched. Then the car was hit and had to be partially repainted which of course never matched either. The only worse paint problem I had was with my 1986 Corvette. The clear coat yellowed as the paint aged which gave the car a purple tint. It was impossible to do anything with this other than a total repaint.

In the end, choosing the paint color before I buy a car is always a big deal to me for that reason. If it is a "special" color, metalic color, or a multi stage paint with a tinted clear coat, I always talk to an experienced body shop ahead of time to ask what their experience has been with repaints of that color. If I get negative vibes then I stay away from that color. Most of my cars are non-metalic for that reason and tend to be black, red, or white.

Dave

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post #10 of 34 Old 08-15-2010, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave-S View Post
My first bad experience with paint matching issues was a long time ago with my new metalic blue 1969 Chevelle SS. That car eventually looked like a rainbow of colors. Right from the factory, the front nose panel did not match the rest of the car. After three repaints, it never matched. Then the car was hit and had to be partially repainted which of course never matched either. The only worse paint problem I had was with my 1986 Corvette. The clear coat yellowed as the paint aged which gave the car a purple tint. It was impossible to do anything with this other than a total repaint.

In the end, choosing the paint color before I buy a car is always a big deal to me for that reason. If it is a "special" color, metalic color, or a multi stage paint with a tinted clear coat, I always talk to an experienced body shop ahead of time to ask what their experience has been with repaints of that color. If I get negative vibes then I stay away from that color. Most of my cars are non-metalic for that reason and tend to be black, red, or white.

Dave
That is a very good point! I love black and white. Red not sio much, but your point stands. I stay away from the "special" colrs as they are only special for about a year; trendy.

To each his own.

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