Having read up now for some time about people particularly running mobile one in their engines and having things from lifter failure to oil pump failure many do not know or even enlighten themselves particularly on camaro5 and think oh I just use synthetic and its all that! Well trying to protect your engine with a full synthetic only harms it, And I have known that for some time. I use dexos the recommended blend of regular oil and synthetic for g.m. products that still has the needed minerals...that's right elements needed in oil to not break down or cause the metal parts prone to wear like cam shafts, crank shafts, bearings, oil pumps etc. to fail or break into pieces. And Having read a big write up someone did with a do it yourself article in the engine section of camaro5 I was disgusted that at the end the guy,( who did great article with pics and everything thoroughly explaining the whole process), just limps his car off down the street stalling until he can drive it to a dyno to get it tuned....... This is so wrong.... Every hydraulic flat tappet cam I ever installed never had a problem in the many engines I built for my hot rods because I always ran the engine above 3000 for thirty minutes as soon as I got it timed running while having an assistant top off the radiator, I also made sure everything was pre oiled well by using a pre oiling tool made from a cut off distributor to turn the oil pump.
SO this is for those of you who will read it, you do need to break in a hydraulic cam and any cam its a process of heat treating the metal of the cam by running it hot thus forging its lobes by the heat of the engine, otherwise your more prone to cam lobe failure with the cams being not properly hardened right off the bat....and it sends tiny pieces of the cam shaft through your engine until larger chunks decide to come off and it mushrooms your lifter possibly ruining its bore, and then of course breaking the pushrod harming the rocker and valve and spring and maybe ruining the head or hurting the piston and do you know what that does?
You see where I am going with this? I have dealt with disasters before, a lost nut in a intake..... OOPs there goes a piston, a set of gaskets and a total pull and reinstall of a engine..... ooops bought a bum cracked block had to sue a guy who lied, and the parts taken out to go in another engine, oops heads lifter bore bad.....no machining it it just loved to make lifters hang up and mushroom, and thus hurt other things...replace heads...... These are just some of the things I dealt with over many years of rebuilding old chevies to make into hot rods and sell or keep as a hobby of mine over the years....80s, 90s, early 2000's And well now my job and work and driveway are not so hospitable to me being a front yard mechanic and I just want to retire some day. SO this is the best warning I can come up with, here is the article, and good luck to those of you who would ever try to install their own cam with its specialty tools required, a degree wheel, checking your lifter preload and installed spring height, new pushrod length and such things that are more crucial the more the engine cost. As a oops on our engines is something we can ill afford.
GM LS Hydraulic Roller Cam Bulletin
Attn: GM LS Engine Owners
Re: Hydraulic Roller Cam & Lifter Failures Due To Improper Lubrication
As the marketplace stretches the power levels of the popular GM LS platform (especially in power adder applications), a marked increase is being seen in hydraulic roller cam lobe deterioration, along with lifter wheel and needle bearing failures. The root issue of this problem is a general lack of understanding about the lubrication needs of this engine platform.
Customers often do not consider the need for either a break-in oil or application specific formula due to the fact that their application utilizes a hydraulic roller cam. Since these LS engines are primarily for street/strip use, a typical customer may use a conventional 20W-50 “Racing Oil” or a similar off-the-shelf lubricant. The engines are thus not broken in with specialized break-in oil, meaning that the proper foundation for valve train durability is never established.
As street applications featuring the LS engine are not typically warmed up before driving, the heavy weight oil (such as 20W-50) is slower in flowing to the hydraulic roller lifters. The result is a lack of adequate lubrication. The LS platform pump and oiling system is designed for 5W-30 viscosity grade oil, so using heavier weight oil actually reduces lubrication and often leads to rapid valve train failure.
Driven Racing Oil™ recommends using BR30 Break-In Oil and LS30 Synthetic Street Performance Oil as a two-part solution to this growing problem.
By utilizing the BR30 Break-In Oil, the proper additive foundation will be introduced into the engine. This is accomplished first by breaking in the LS engine for 30 minutes to one hour much like a customer with a flat tappet valve train would. The customer should then drain the oil and change the filter, install a fresh fill of BR30 and continue to break-in the engine for the next 500 miles.
Due to the use of hydraulic lifters in these engines, it is critical that the oil be changed after break-in to remove the metal particulate created during the process. If these small particles are allowed to stay in the oil system for thousands of miles serious damage will occur.
After the break-in steps are complete, it is time to install the LS30 Synthetic Street Performance Oil, which is a properly formulated 5W-30 motor oil designed specifically for GM LS-based engines. The LS30 oil features mPAO synthetic base oil technology that increases High Temperature High Shear (HTHS) bearing oil film thickness, so the oil flows like a 5W-30 but protects like a 15W-40.
This innovative technology enables LS30 to provide the required viscosity for the LS oiling system and deliver the added protection required for higher lift cams and hydraulic roller lifters.
This two-step lubrication process provides the proper viscosity and additive chemistry for the unique requirements of modified GM LS engines with hydraulic roller valve trains. Properly completing this sequence of steps utilizing both the Driven BR30 Break-In Oil and LS30 Synthetic Street Performance Oil will establish the proper anti-wear film in the engine, remove harmful break-in particles and provide excellent ring sealing.
This entry was posted in Tech Bulletins on April 5, 2010.
Sure this is a also add for a oil company but hey whats true is true heres the link..................And my oil will be changed right after break in............before driving it home. Also breaking in the new springs is crucial to temper them by heating them for thirty minutes then letting them cool.
GM LS Hydraulic Roller Cam Bulletin | Driven Racing Oil
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