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post #1 of 5 Old 02-01-2014, 06:49 AM Thread Starter
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break in your hydaulic cam and oil needs

Having read up now for some time about people particularly running mobile one in their engines and having things from lifter failure to oil pump failure many do not know or even enlighten themselves particularly on camaro5 and think oh I just use synthetic and its all that! Well trying to protect your engine with a full synthetic only harms it, And I have known that for some time. I use dexos the recommended blend of regular oil and synthetic for g.m. products that still has the needed minerals...that's right elements needed in oil to not break down or cause the metal parts prone to wear like cam shafts, crank shafts, bearings, oil pumps etc. to fail or break into pieces. And Having read a big write up someone did with a do it yourself article in the engine section of camaro5 I was disgusted that at the end the guy,( who did great article with pics and everything thoroughly explaining the whole process), just limps his car off down the street stalling until he can drive it to a dyno to get it tuned....... This is so wrong.... Every hydraulic flat tappet cam I ever installed never had a problem in the many engines I built for my hot rods because I always ran the engine above 3000 for thirty minutes as soon as I got it timed running while having an assistant top off the radiator, I also made sure everything was pre oiled well by using a pre oiling tool made from a cut off distributor to turn the oil pump.
SO this is for those of you who will read it, you do need to break in a hydraulic cam and any cam its a process of heat treating the metal of the cam by running it hot thus forging its lobes by the heat of the engine, otherwise your more prone to cam lobe failure with the cams being not properly hardened right off the bat....and it sends tiny pieces of the cam shaft through your engine until larger chunks decide to come off and it mushrooms your lifter possibly ruining its bore, and then of course breaking the pushrod harming the rocker and valve and spring and maybe ruining the head or hurting the piston and do you know what that does?

You see where I am going with this? I have dealt with disasters before, a lost nut in a intake..... OOPs there goes a piston, a set of gaskets and a total pull and reinstall of a engine..... ooops bought a bum cracked block had to sue a guy who lied, and the parts taken out to go in another engine, oops heads lifter bore bad.....no machining it it just loved to make lifters hang up and mushroom, and thus hurt other things...replace heads...... These are just some of the things I dealt with over many years of rebuilding old chevies to make into hot rods and sell or keep as a hobby of mine over the years....80s, 90s, early 2000's And well now my job and work and driveway are not so hospitable to me being a front yard mechanic and I just want to retire some day. SO this is the best warning I can come up with, here is the article, and good luck to those of you who would ever try to install their own cam with its specialty tools required, a degree wheel, checking your lifter preload and installed spring height, new pushrod length and such things that are more crucial the more the engine cost. As a oops on our engines is something we can ill afford.


GM LS Hydraulic Roller Cam Bulletin


Attn: GM LS Engine Owners

Re: Hydraulic Roller Cam & Lifter Failures Due To Improper Lubrication

As the marketplace stretches the power levels of the popular GM LS platform (especially in power adder applications), a marked increase is being seen in hydraulic roller cam lobe deterioration, along with lifter wheel and needle bearing failures. The root issue of this problem is a general lack of understanding about the lubrication needs of this engine platform.

Customers often do not consider the need for either a break-in oil or application specific formula due to the fact that their application utilizes a hydraulic roller cam. Since these LS engines are primarily for street/strip use, a typical customer may use a conventional 20W-50 “Racing Oil” or a similar off-the-shelf lubricant. The engines are thus not broken in with specialized break-in oil, meaning that the proper foundation for valve train durability is never established.

As street applications featuring the LS engine are not typically warmed up before driving, the heavy weight oil (such as 20W-50) is slower in flowing to the hydraulic roller lifters. The result is a lack of adequate lubrication. The LS platform pump and oiling system is designed for 5W-30 viscosity grade oil, so using heavier weight oil actually reduces lubrication and often leads to rapid valve train failure.

Driven Racing Oil™ recommends using BR30 Break-In Oil and LS30 Synthetic Street Performance Oil as a two-part solution to this growing problem.

By utilizing the BR30 Break-In Oil, the proper additive foundation will be introduced into the engine. This is accomplished first by breaking in the LS engine for 30 minutes to one hour much like a customer with a flat tappet valve train would. The customer should then drain the oil and change the filter, install a fresh fill of BR30 and continue to break-in the engine for the next 500 miles.

Due to the use of hydraulic lifters in these engines, it is critical that the oil be changed after break-in to remove the metal particulate created during the process. If these small particles are allowed to stay in the oil system for thousands of miles serious damage will occur.

After the break-in steps are complete, it is time to install the LS30 Synthetic Street Performance Oil, which is a properly formulated 5W-30 motor oil designed specifically for GM LS-based engines. The LS30 oil features mPAO synthetic base oil technology that increases High Temperature High Shear (HTHS) bearing oil film thickness, so the oil flows like a 5W-30 but protects like a 15W-40.

This innovative technology enables LS30 to provide the required viscosity for the LS oiling system and deliver the added protection required for higher lift cams and hydraulic roller lifters.

This two-step lubrication process provides the proper viscosity and additive chemistry for the unique requirements of modified GM LS engines with hydraulic roller valve trains. Properly completing this sequence of steps utilizing both the Driven BR30 Break-In Oil and LS30 Synthetic Street Performance Oil will establish the proper anti-wear film in the engine, remove harmful break-in particles and provide excellent ring sealing.

Driven-sm-icon

This entry was posted in Tech Bulletins on April 5, 2010.

Sure this is a also add for a oil company but hey whats true is true heres the link..................And my oil will be changed right after break in............before driving it home. Also breaking in the new springs is crucial to temper them by heating them for thirty minutes then letting them cool.

GM LS Hydraulic Roller Cam Bulletin | Driven Racing Oil

2013 2ss/rs NPP CRT, Forged 428 ls3 stroker, Mast windage, GMPP ported heads, Katech chain, Trunnion upgrade, Cam motion stage 3, SP headers, Vmax PTB, Monster c7 dual clutch, Mgw shifter, Fluidampr 25%UDP, CAI induction, rocket racing wheels, clutch reservoir, bmr toes and trailing arms, Lpw diff cover , scanner, drl's led /fogs, elite catch can, MRT louvers, tint, ZL1 spoiler, stripes & badging, etc....

Last edited by christianchevelle; 02-01-2014 at 06:15 PM.
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post #2 of 5 Old 02-05-2014, 02:28 AM
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so this is saying that when you install a new cam you should use breakin oil even though the engine is not new? You should run it for 30min to 1hr? is this at idle or 3000rpm? Is it ok to do this on the stock cam tune? the rest of the 500mile break in would have to be after the dyno tune.

2012 2SS/RSM6 Silver with Painted CarbonFlash rally stripes,3.91gears, NewEra ported TB,OTR, HeritageGrill, NightFury cam, Melling296 Oilpump, KatechCR-5 chain, Cloyes LS2HD tensioner, PAC 1205x springs and Comp Cams trunion upgrade. American Racing1 7/8"LT headers w/cats, and TWM fullShifter BMRsways,trailing arms,toe rods, delrin cradle bushings,BK039rear control arm bushingkit,front suspension bushing kit. Solo Mach XL exhaust 25% Fluidampr
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post #3 of 5 Old 02-06-2014, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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I used to do break ins on my small block chevys at 3000 rpm for a half hour while topping off the fluids as needed and setting the timing quickly right before it. The important part is to change the oil right after the break in as the cam will most likely shed small particles of metal , ( a magnetic oil drain plug is a nice addition to help also). A stock cam tune cannot adjust the air fuel tables right to make the best power for the cam and the car will have to struggle to try to have its computer adjust for the new cam so the best way is to have it hooked up to good program like hp tuners or likewise being monitored and have it adjusted for the new cams specs before firing it up. There are companies like jannetty that do sell cam kits and a sct tuner with the program for the new cam loaded into the tuner so you can do it yourself if that's what a person desires. A canned tune is just that though it cannot take into effect the variables unless its already programmed into the tuner and then still is not as good as dyno tune with a good lap top program tuner that is giving feed back constantly on the performance of the engine, not just shoving a program into the ECM and that's it. Also making sure you have the absolutely right size of pushrod is essential as aftermarket cams have different base circles to the cam requiring other than stock pushrod lengths, my builder is recommending a 7.425 pushrod and says if that length is not right as that is what he has been using that he will swap it for the 7.40 the cam seller recommends , and know from some posts the stock pushrods measure something like 7.375.... And a .o25 difference in cam base circle doe not seem much but it is setting the lifter preload and making less noise form the valve train and problems. sure its just 25/100th of an inch but its things like that that can make a big difference over time in if the car runs great forever or becomes noisy over time a little. On a stock small block chevy with regular flat tappet hydraulic lifters the pushrod lengths were not as important as the base circle of the cam was the same........ As ten cazillion SBC engines were made the cams were everywhere and still are. Ours are single bolt and I am as most do am switching to a three bolt cam and three bolt upper gear.

2013 2ss/rs NPP CRT, Forged 428 ls3 stroker, Mast windage, GMPP ported heads, Katech chain, Trunnion upgrade, Cam motion stage 3, SP headers, Vmax PTB, Monster c7 dual clutch, Mgw shifter, Fluidampr 25%UDP, CAI induction, rocket racing wheels, clutch reservoir, bmr toes and trailing arms, Lpw diff cover , scanner, drl's led /fogs, elite catch can, MRT louvers, tint, ZL1 spoiler, stripes & badging, etc....

Last edited by christianchevelle; 02-06-2014 at 05:52 PM.
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post #4 of 5 Old 02-06-2014, 11:49 PM
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I checked with Comp cams too and they said the same as you. break in oil even though the engine already has 6000miles and bring it to operating temp then let it cool for the springs. 1500-2000rpm. Said stock cam tune is fine as long as its just high idle 1500-2000. no driving with stock cam tune. I have a Night Fury cam going in. They sent 7.425 rods. Ill check them and degree cam too. I hope they are right. I dont have time to exchange rods with them. Summit racing is over night to me.

2012 2SS/RSM6 Silver with Painted CarbonFlash rally stripes,3.91gears, NewEra ported TB,OTR, HeritageGrill, NightFury cam, Melling296 Oilpump, KatechCR-5 chain, Cloyes LS2HD tensioner, PAC 1205x springs and Comp Cams trunion upgrade. American Racing1 7/8"LT headers w/cats, and TWM fullShifter BMRsways,trailing arms,toe rods, delrin cradle bushings,BK039rear control arm bushingkit,front suspension bushing kit. Solo Mach XL exhaust 25% Fluidampr

Last edited by JCunningham; 02-07-2014 at 12:01 AM.
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post #5 of 5 Old 02-07-2014, 06:00 AM Thread Starter
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yes well they can call a cam the holy flying butt monkey rocket from hell cam and some people will buy it, I do not buy a cam based on a given name but based on the lobes and if it does what I want it too with duration and over lap and such. I used to be friends with a mechanic who raced chevies and machinist who gave me great advice when ever I needed it and if something got to tough I went to them. I have frankenstiened things together and done some fun things over time and they made great street strip drivers. My mechanic I am using recommends using the ls2 damper and says the stock oil pump is fine. The joe gibbs stuff the driven motor oil line is great for engines that are going to be raced yet is expensive at $11 a quart, and I just use the dexos as it is a half and half and has the needed minerals bonded with the regular oil in it, many people use **** synthetic and think oh its all that. Well it isn't and I have known that for a long time, it does not bond the minerals/elements to its base and they are just a added element floating in the mix, and have read too many posts on c-5 about people using mobile one having to make major repairs and wondering why... As it takes chemistry to make a fluid that is a chemical bond with minerals that are not part of it in the first place. Good luck to you, I will be doing my rear end gear change with the poly bushings and bmr sways toes and trails and cradle next year all at once to save money. I am just going to use the stock oil as break in I am sure as that was always the thing I did and never had a problem and I am sure hydraulic flat tappet is a lot harder on the cam break in rather than a roller. I read a article most likely on c-5 about being able to squeeze a new oil pump and timing chain on without totally having to drop the pan and cross member etc.....and thought about it, I know to have it done its $500 more to change them as the labor is a pain. This post was mainly to let people know as in c-5 many do not know they still have to break in to forge the cam just as my boss thought...you do not have to break in a roller cam....think again, you have to heat treat all cams and springs....

2013 2ss/rs NPP CRT, Forged 428 ls3 stroker, Mast windage, GMPP ported heads, Katech chain, Trunnion upgrade, Cam motion stage 3, SP headers, Vmax PTB, Monster c7 dual clutch, Mgw shifter, Fluidampr 25%UDP, CAI induction, rocket racing wheels, clutch reservoir, bmr toes and trailing arms, Lpw diff cover , scanner, drl's led /fogs, elite catch can, MRT louvers, tint, ZL1 spoiler, stripes & badging, etc....
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