ABout to start a twin turbo install!! - ModernCamaro.com - 5th Generation Camaro Enthusiasts
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post #1 of 18 Old 10-21-2014, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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ABout to start a twin turbo install!!

So a few months ago I came across a guy selling a TT system. It is a STS remote mount system that mounts the turbos in the back of the car. It replaces the axle-back. In the next few days I will start the install. The manual says it is a 20 hour job. I figure if I spend 1-2 hours a day then I can probably finish in about maybe 3 weeks. It will take me longer because I'll be doing it in my apartment complex parking lot with hand tools. I glanced over the install manual and it doesn't look like anything I can't handle. I'll just read over it a few times, get all my tools ready, get all the parts ready, take my time, and try to get it done the right way the first time. It should be pretty good. I'll keep you all posted and I'll update this thread once I start. I'll post pics too. Wish me luck!

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post #2 of 18 Old 10-21-2014, 11:07 PM
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Awesome can't wait

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post #3 of 18 Old 10-22-2014, 02:49 AM
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wow you are a brave man ... in the parking lot for 2-3 weeks wow

good luck and we are looking forward to hearing from you more

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post #4 of 18 Old 10-22-2014, 09:16 AM
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Chapel- You, my friend are my hero!! Keep us posted and I'm dying to see some pictures brother. It is going to be wicked once you're done and it's tuned.

Good luck brother!!
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post #5 of 18 Old 10-22-2014, 10:44 AM
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Let me know if you want help designing the crankcase evac system...they delete proper evacuation and you will have oil and pressure issues. Good luck!!
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post #6 of 18 Old 10-22-2014, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bamaproshop View Post
Awesome can't wait
Quote:
Originally Posted by 83Hokie View Post
wow you are a brave man ... in the parking lot for 2-3 weeks wow

good luck and we are looking forward to hearing from you more
Thanks guys! Hokie, I'll be around more often! And I figure on days when I don't have to work I'll be able to spend a good 4-6 hours on it. It seems like the most difficult part will be running the piping and the oil lines. I got a couple guys who can help me if I get stuck. I'm saying 2-3 weeks if I don't get stuck. But I think it'll probably be more like a month.

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Chapel- You, my friend are my hero!! Keep us posted and I'm dying to see some pictures brother. It is going to be wicked once you're done and it's tuned.

Good luck brother!!
Thanks man. Once it is installed I'll have to get it towed to a tuner. I know a couple shops around the area that can tune it. Sometimes they're backed up for weeks to months. So I'll have to try and arrange the install to be finished when they're available.

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Let me know if you want help designing the crankcase evac system...they delete proper evacuation and you will have oil and pressure issues. Good luck!!
Hmm, can you give me more info on this? Thanks!

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post #7 of 18 Old 10-22-2014, 06:51 PM
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This is going to be cool, good luck Chapel.

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post #8 of 18 Old 10-23-2014, 11:07 AM
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Sure. STS uses a pressure switch to close all evacuation when boost is detected, so it only evacuates basically at idle and deceleration, low throttle cruising. So crankcase pressure builds and cause oil issues and leaks are common.

This also results in the damaging combustion by-products accumulating in the crankcase and mixing with the engine oil causing accelerated wear as the compounds accumulate. You need to keep constant evacuation on the crankcase at all times so these compounds are removed as soon as they enter as blow-by, before they can settle and mix. So, you will want a dual valve oil separating system like the Elite E2, RX, or Apex with inline checkvalves flowing away from the outlets with one going to the intake manifold for evac suction when in non-boost. The other outlet w/checkvalve will be connected to the turbo inlets (T from each turbo to one line running to the engine compartment....either place barbs in the coupler that attaches to the turbo inlet, or drill and tap each cold side housing and install barbs direct into them. Just get as close to the turbine w/out danger of making contact so you realize as much suction under boost as possible). Delete all the STS solenoid and routing. and Then when in non-boost the IM provides suction for evacuation, when boost is detected, the primary valve closes, preventing any boost from entering the crankcase, and the secondary valve opens continuing evacuation. Pull from the rear of the drivers side valve cover and if a LS3, T to the valley cover barb as well and that will be your dirty, or "foul" side evacuation point. This runs to the cans inlet. Provides proper evacuation as well as retains a closed system that is emmissions compliant. Now you need to address the clean, or "fresh" side. Cap the passenger side valve cover barb as stock, it runs to the main intake air bridge and would allow boost to enter the crankcase if left intact. Run a billet cleanside separator (Elite and RX have them) and it replaces the oil fill cap and you run a barb from the cap to the end of one of the cone air filters. This will provide filtered fresh incoming air to make up for the evacuated foul vapors, and also will trap any oil from ingestion via the cleanside when there is any crankcase pressure blip.

Let me know if you need any more details, and PM me for more info. This you should be able to follow. This is critical with any turbo application, and very few do it correctly. This will save you some headaches.
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post #9 of 18 Old 10-25-2014, 08:48 PM
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you are brave.. anything that would take that long requires it.. and making such a drastic change to a car like that... but those turbo systems that mount under the car are really cool, they even look cool.

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post #10 of 18 Old 10-26-2014, 09:31 AM
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He will have a huge perma-grin when finished!! Keep us updated Chapel!! And any questions, let me know, willing to guide you through any of it.

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