DIY: Front Speaker Install - - 5th Generation Camaro Enthusiasts
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post #1 of 6 Old 04-10-2011, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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DIY: Front Speaker Install

So let's start by taking the door panel off. The first step is taking the little rubber cover out and using a torx bit (sorry don't remember size) and remove this bolt from the door handle area.

Next is the door opener handle. You need a 7mm hex head driver or ratchet to remove this bolt.

You now have 3 more 7mm hex bolts to remove in the following locations.

Bottom of the door panel towards the front under the speaker.

Once you get all the bolts out you can pop the panel off. It's easier if you have the window down all the way. You can start at the top rear of the panel and just pull the plastic away from the door. There are several snap locks along the top that you can pull out with relative ease.

Once you get the top ones popped out, you just need to go around the rest of the door panel and pop out the rest. At this point, you can lift the door panel off of the door. It will still be attached due to the wiring but, you can move the door panel at least. You need to pop off the tweeter now. It just pops off of the door panel with a good tug. Once it's free you can disconnect it via the connector and put it aside. Lift the door panel off of the push lock and then unhook the connectors and the lock cable. The lock cable(green thing) is a little odd but, you simply pull that away from how it normally rests and you then lift up on it. The door panel should come off freely now.

To remove the speaker is quite easy. It's one 7mm bolt. The housing is LIGHTLY glued to the door. You can pull it off without the strength of 10 men. A little old lady could probably do it.

Here's the front of the factory speaker.

And here's the rear. As you can see, I simply cut the connector off with about 3 or 4 inches of wire left dangling. I did this just in case I wanted to one day return the factory speakers to the car if I were to sell it or trade it in.

As you can see here. I replaced the stock speaker connector with spade and socket connectors. This makes swapping out speakers universal. I just need the wires from the speaker to have the appropriate mates.

Here is the crossover unit that came with the component speakers. They are Kicker 6.5" with a tweeter. I forget the model #.

I crimped on the appropriate mating connectors to the crossover unit and plugged those in. I also put some double-sided tape on the back of the unit.

As you can see here, the crossover unit fits well on the inside bottom of the door where the speaker goes.

You should prep the tweeter now. There is one screw that you need to take out for access to the tweeter. Once the cover is off, you can pull the tweeter out of the casing.

Although the tweeter fit fairly well, I taped the tweeter in place to make sure it didn't move around. It's now ready for install back onto the door panel.

You now need to run the wire up to the tweeter. I didn't want to mess with the existing wire for the factory tweeter so, I just took the wire coming from the crossover unit and ran it out this rubber grommet.

The wire from the crossover unit is exactly long enough to go up along the existing wire harness and to where the factory plug for the tweeter is. I just taped up the new tweeter wire to the existing wire bundle to keep it neat.


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post #2 of 6 Old 04-10-2011, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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The subthump adapter is definitely needed to use ANY type of aftermarket speaker. If you scroll back up to the factory speaker, you'll see that it's encased in that huge plastic housing. It's molded in place and unless you want to destroy the housing, you can't get the speaker out. Using the subthump adapter allows you to add an aftermarket speaker with ease.

All that's left is to add the Dynamat to the door and then remount the panel. When doing the Dynamat, be sure to stay aware of the holes in the door that are necessary for mounting the door panel. Covering those up is BAD. Measure out the lengths you need and cut out where the holes are. Then remove the backing and apply the Dynamat.

Hang the door panel back up on the door via the push lock and reconnect the wiring. Be sure not to forget to plug in your tweeter. I taped up the junction to make sure it didn't shake loose at some point. TEST YOUR SPEAKER BEFORE PUTTING THE DOOR PANEL BACK ON!!! Nothing sucks worse than having to take everything off because you forgot something simple like plugging in a wire. Also, don't forget the door lock wire. Put the ball in the socket and pull on the green plastic thing until you can slide it back into it's original place. You can now line up the tabs from the door panel to the door and start popping things back into place. Once everything looks fairly secured to the door, bolt everything back up. Rinse and repeat with the other door.

I stole this from another forum also....I didn't use Kicker. I used Rockford Fosgates 6.5 components. I like them better because the crossover is built into the 6.5 speaker and you don't have an external box.But for those who use a crossover, this post should help you out

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post #3 of 6 Old 04-10-2011, 07:23 PM
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Nice, Thanks for Sharing!!!! What Camaro type do U have??

Retired US Air Force & Loving Life!!!
2012 Corvette "Centennial Edition" Coupe
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post #4 of 6 Old 04-11-2011, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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I have the LS.

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post #5 of 6 Old 04-11-2011, 03:33 PM
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Great DYI very detailed thanks for sharing

2014 2LT/RS with spring edition package. Proud Litho Owner #28.
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post #6 of 6 Old 04-12-2011, 12:22 AM Thread Starter
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It makes it easier for you to do, and save yourself some money vs paying a shop to do it.

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