I upgraded my factory system and what a horror story - ModernCamaro.com - 5th Generation Camaro Enthusiasts
Electronics & Audio Stereo Components | Lighting | Radars | Alarms

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 24 Old 07-21-2012, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
BUZZS20122LS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 47
 
I upgraded my factory system and what a horror story

My LS had quality sound from the factory system, it was simply not loud enough. The LS does not have the Boston Acoustics 10 speaker system which has an external 240 watt amp, the stock LS system has no external amp.

Here is a brief of how I ended up in my audio nightmare:

A Local shop that does mainly tinting and stereo said would charge extra to remove the back panel to get the whole back window. So I went home and removed it myself, but in the process ruined the factory 6x9's because I didn't know there was a tall gasket or bracket which hooked on the panel, when I pulled it out, the speakers cones got ripped up badly.

I knew from posts here that replacing the 6 x 9's required special bracket adaptors, no big deal and didn't mind spending the money.

So I go to the shop and was told that a certain set of 6x9's (showed them to me) would beef up the bass, they were 3-way Rocford Fosgates and ran $100 installed.

Than I asked about really beefing up the system and he said that adding an amp would help. From past cars I had, that sounded logical, that always improved every car stereo I had in the past. So, the amp, a 300 watt "Punch" Rockford Fosgate, was about $345, and than I asked about door speakers. Again a set of 3-way R.F. 6.5" which costed $150.

So I agreed to get that whole system added to the factory radio unit, and than later I could get a sub-woofer if I still wasn't satisfied.

Well, here is how it went....5 hours later picked up the car, tint looked great, Promax 35% all windows and yes, it is true the back window needs to have the whole window done, not cut around the brakelight.

The stereo, well they were still working on it while I was there and than they found out that there was a loud buzz coming thru it when they started up the engine, so back in they went for about another 1/2 hour to replace a wire which I guess shielded out noise. While pulling out the parking lot, got a very bad first sniff test, sounded terribly shrill and distorted.

An hour long drive and was horribly dissapointed, the stock factory system sounded not only louder, it had much more bass and a whole hell of allot less distortion. The new system sounds shrill and thin, it has horrible overall tone and stereo imaging, no balls at all, it's very wimpy sounding and if I was guessing I'd say the wattage was about 15 watts per channel (which IS what the factory head unit has). After playing every type of music I had and making endless adjustments to the tone controls, nothing made it better at all.

The first "deal killer" is that the tone control "fader" does not work at all, and this is probably due to what they told me about how the amp was wired into the front speaker outputs, yes, it required I buy a $50.00 adaptor (which was not discussed btw).. and speaking of that, there was another adaptor required (which was discussed) that costed evan more. So the rear speakers were apparently wired in parallel to the front speakers, like a 2 channel amp. BTW, they miss-wired the balance as evidenced by them working opposite (turned left the right side is louder and visa-versa).. No this didn't bother me that badly as I don't use the balance that much, but it shows that if they got that wrong they probably made other bad decisions or mistakes. But the fader being in-operable (when turned all the way to the front the whole system turns off, turned toward rear, it comes back on but does not work like a leval control I DO like to use the fader control, especially when the rear speakers generally can handle more volume, I like to have about a 40/60% front/rear fade.

So, is it a fact that the stock non B.A. system does not have RCA outputs for external amps? One would assume the B.A. models have the same
head unit, so why would they go thru the trouble to eliminate them, seems like they plotted to get us to buy the B.A. system which is not evan
an option on the LS. IF the stock unit does have RCA outputs for external amps than WHY didn't the shop use them instead of using
and the speaker outputs? They did say that if they didn't use the speaker outputs for the amp in-put that it would void my warranty
from GM to cover the head unit, and that they used only the FRONT speaker outlets. But I think if that was the case there was some other motivation such as simply being too lazy and cheap to save them money and time, please somebody tell me cause I don't want to spend hours looking for this info or taking the dash apart to look for myself. Anybody knows that using the speaker outlets to drive an amp will most likely end up with much more distortion than if RCA outlets were used, and evan if not, adjustments of the amp's level inputs on such wiring would be very critical. Than of course the fadder control would be in-operable unless both front and rear speaker outs were used. So if the amp did not have RCA outlets, than they should have used both the front and rear speaker outlets and hooked it up as a 4 channel amp which it is (according to specs on the box).


Than, after my 1-hour test drive, I thought I'd try to adjust the level knobs on the amp, I didn't watch them do that part up close but that's what they said they were doing while I was there. But the amp was so friggin HOT that I couldn't evan touch certain parts of it, which is probably due to the fact they they chose to locate it inside of where the spare tire would be (if I had one)....it is actually exactly where the air-compressor/tire repair kit was before I took it out. Now, common sense tells me that the amp should not have been located in there, under the carpet, under the spare cover where there is no air circulation at all. I requested the amp be in an area where it would take up as little space as possible, but I think they shouldn't have put it in there.

Now, where am I? I'm going to go there Monday and ask what we can do about it, I don't know what kind of policy they have about removing the components and return it to stock. I'd be willing to pay for labor and would expect that they'd not fully refund the purchase price for the amp and or the speakers. As for the 6x9's, I think that they were part of my problem with less bass, though they are 3-way, which adds some treble, they didn't have good bass sound. My factory door speakers were returned to me and seem un-damged, as far as I'm concerned, if I could clik my heels and return it to factory stock I'd do it in a heart beat.

As for what I'd do if doing it all over? At this point, I feel totally confused, I read many posts here about the audio systems. I heard there was a Pioneer head unit that is compatible with my car when used with one of two available dash kits. I looked at ads on ebay and was close to going that way based on positive comments about how this alone dramatically improved the sound quality. The shop told me there was NO system that is compatible with my car, and I didn't know what to say. I said I saw Youtubes of afermarket systems installed in '10-'12 Camaro's, though some said some minor functions were not working properly.


This is an "everything that could have went wrong did" kinda story, I know it's a big downer. I could probably find a set of factory 6x9's on ebay or ads here if I got to be anal about returning it to factory spec.

Why did I fix it if it were not broke? The stock system sounded great BUT...the top volume was definatley not high end, there was no true power, but it was nice how they designed it to have no distortion no matter how high the volume was set. All I wanted to do is get that same sound but add a bunch of clean power for head-room and hopefully more bass. Is that so un-reasonable? I mean the formula worked on every other car I had, add watts, add punch and bass, etc. Why did this system end up sounding like dried up dog crap?

Notice I did not mention the specific shop which did the system, maybe they will try to make me happy. If they don't than it was my fault for not being more diligent about where to take it and what type of components to have installed. I think I should have just gotten a GM sub-woofer which was tuned to my car/my system but I think that requires the Boston Acoustics system (which I don't have). Maybe I should take it as it is to another shop to see if it can be re-wired and or modified to make me satisfied, but I doubt that could happen unless the head unit was replaced (regardless of what they said). Changing out the factory stereo would allow a power amp to be hooked up properly thru RCA plugs, than the fader would work and there might
be much less distortion. I've read here that changing out the head unit was not really necessary to get the system sounding good so I didn't argue with
him on that topic.

The shops owner was the one who suggested the specific components and he was very confidant that they would add clean power and much more bass, he was very polite and I'm not trashing them, I'll give them a fair chance to make me happy but don't think it would be wise try to add a subwoofer which would add more bass. If the amp and speakers that are in there are sounding so bad, than just a subwoofer would just cheese it up.

My own guess at what went wrong is this: 1. The 3-way speakers do have less bass, which accounts for less bass. 2. The amp, the way it is wired from the speaker leads, ads more distortion, the added on adaptors is partly to blame for the muddy tone and shrill treble. 3. The amp should not have been located where it is, its running very hot and down the road (after warranty expires), the amp will fry out and become a $340 paper weight. 4. There are compatible aftermarket head units and dash kits, Pioneer is one of them, not that the factory head unit must be replaced, but it can be. 5. For much more bass, a sub-woofer might be added, but not until all that other crap is corrected. 6. Adding an aftermarket amp will most likely blow out the
factory speakers. The Rockford Fosgate speakers would probably sound fine but I'd need to add a subwoofer to compensate for the lost bass. As for my system having more distortion at a lower top volume, that has me miffed, the amp is probably not the problem but how it is wired and adjusted.

I've read posts by those who had their factory system beefed up and are very satisfied, most of them though started out with the Boston Acoustics system, could not find much about what to do with the stock system.


I know this was long, but I'd rather have detailed facts for those really interested, I can add
the specifics for the exact type of aftermarket amp and speakers but feel to down and out to do that right now, I got the boxes for all of them.

Last edited by BUZZS20122LS; 07-21-2012 at 11:26 PM.
BUZZS20122LS is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 24 Old 07-22-2012, 09:26 AM
Premium Member
 
JWD621's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Hurst, Texas
Posts: 4,352
 
Garage
Sorry you have had such a bad time with all of this and wish I had an answer for you but I know some of our members have had good luck doing this and will help.

Let us know what the shop does or does not do.


2010 2SS/RS A6 L99 Born 09/16/2009 Vin#9146985
ModernCamaro Car of the Month Jan 2013
CAI,Axle back exhaust, V Max Throttle Body
JWD621 is offline  
post #3 of 24 Old 07-22-2012, 09:41 AM
Premium Member
 
patriotpa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,215
  
Garage
Make sure the shop knows you're posting how they handle this on ModernCamaro.
10 happy customers can't make up for 1 unhappy customer.

James 1:25 Ordered from Faulkner Chevy #NKCF02 1100 5/8/9 2000, 3300 7/16/9 TPW 7/20,GOT MY (low) VIN! 4000 7/24/9 ,Picked up 8/7/9!!! Signed Litho #45. Car signed by FBodfather 2011. Service: Jennings Chevy in PA. We don't "drift", kiddies... we POWER SLIDE! MOTM/COTM Sept 2012 Pro Patria Vigilans.
Click the pic.. I don't tolerate fools.
patriotpa is offline  
 
post #4 of 24 Old 07-22-2012, 09:55 AM
Veteran Member
 
bamaproshop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Wetumpka, Alabama
Posts: 8,645
  
Garage
Take a look at SubThump - they will help you pick out the right stuff..

2014 2LT/RS with spring edition package. Proud Litho Owner #28.
bamaproshop is offline  
post #5 of 24 Old 07-22-2012, 10:00 AM
Premium Member
 
patriotpa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,215
  
Garage
Just adding the factory sub would have been a pretty big increase in power, cheaper, and you wouldn't have ended up with a hacked up car.

After they un-f^ck what they did, that may be your best option.

James 1:25 Ordered from Faulkner Chevy #NKCF02 1100 5/8/9 2000, 3300 7/16/9 TPW 7/20,GOT MY (low) VIN! 4000 7/24/9 ,Picked up 8/7/9!!! Signed Litho #45. Car signed by FBodfather 2011. Service: Jennings Chevy in PA. We don't "drift", kiddies... we POWER SLIDE! MOTM/COTM Sept 2012 Pro Patria Vigilans.
Click the pic.. I don't tolerate fools.
patriotpa is offline  
post #6 of 24 Old 07-22-2012, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
BUZZS20122LS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 47
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by patriotpa View Post
Make sure the shop knows you're posting how they handle this on ModernCamaro.
10 happy customers can't make up for 1 unhappy customer.

Yes, I remember reading your post on the topic of audio upgrades and you said the speakers would have the most direct effect on the overall quality of sound. I do agree with that, but than the beauty is in the ear of the bee-holder (bumble-bee fans).

Well, here is how I feel about the situation after a good nights sleep and getting inside the car to look close at the amplifiers 4 setting screws located on the back of it. When I got it home, it was dusk so it was hard to see much within a few hours.

Now for some pics, and let me first say, in my original post, I should have stessed the point that they may just need to adjust the settings with input from me about how I run it. I still am "deal killed" on the fact that I can not fade from front to rear, that must must must be altered in some way evan if they have to ad some kind of level pad, or use another small amp for the front. I am about to take it for another test drive but this time I have pulled the amp out of it's cubby hole and the wires are long enough so all I got to do is reach over in the back seat and make adjustments with a screwdriver to change the:
Input gain level, the frequecy, the eg (which I think is set for the off positon by them right now).. than, well just look at the pic:



I have allready did a few minutes of experimenting with them and am discovering that there is probably going to be a happy ending but it is going to most likely require:

A different location for the amp, this is where they chose to mount it, right were you see it here, and it got soooo **** hot!!:



The rear speakers may need to be mounted in a more quality fashion, and it might require the speaker adaptors that Sub-thump sells. As they are it looks like there are big gaps around the corners and that they might not be getting the full benifits of what a rear deck does for speakers, the "enclosure" effect:



Now as for my complaints about the lack of bass, that will probably end up with my buying a Rockford Fosgate 12" single sub-woofer which he showed me and we looked at where it can be stored in my car, it was $200 installed.

Between adjustments to the EQ , the input level and all that, and the other remedies, I should be posting that it is way better than the factory stereo soon. Here is close up of the amp and the specs off the box:



And here are a couple pics of the glorious window tinting job which was 35% all windows, whole back window done, and the brand name is Max Pro, which is made in the U.S.A and it is guaranteed for life. I see no defects so far and I wiped them down good with the special glass cleaner they sold me which has NO ammonia like household glass cleaning products (which will turn the film purple).





Here is a close up of the wire which they had to change when they discovered the loud BUZZ sound when they started up teh engine, it is the heavy gauge copper color one which is joined to the battery's ground terminal:


Thanks for all the replies and help, I will follow up later when the issues are resolved, hopefully it will end up as good as it can be.

Last edited by BUZZS20122LS; 07-26-2012 at 08:12 PM.
BUZZS20122LS is offline  
post #7 of 24 Old 07-22-2012, 10:37 AM
Premium Member
 
patriotpa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,215
  
Garage
Have a careful look at the polarity of the speaker connections. If one is reversed, they will cancel out and give you lousy flat, dead sound.

As far as your fader problem, the wiring is definitely the issue.

You've got the right idea with the 6x9s needing to be sealed to the rear deck. The air gaps are ruining your low end, creating the same effect as having a ported enclosure with the port tuned to the wrong frequency.

Don't forget volume is not just about amplifier power. Speaker efficiency makes a HUGE difference as well.

For every 3dB increase in efficiency, sound output DOUBLES.

The speakers also have to be designed to work to complement each other, or a competent person needs to know what to select for to get a balanced sound.

Loud is easy. Good, CLEAN sound is hard, especially in car with a wide range of reflective, absorptive and resonant surfaces.

Did you ever notice how certain notes seem a great deal louder, and really shake the car? That's resonance, and it can be controlled.

I hope this helps.

James 1:25 Ordered from Faulkner Chevy #NKCF02 1100 5/8/9 2000, 3300 7/16/9 TPW 7/20,GOT MY (low) VIN! 4000 7/24/9 ,Picked up 8/7/9!!! Signed Litho #45. Car signed by FBodfather 2011. Service: Jennings Chevy in PA. We don't "drift", kiddies... we POWER SLIDE! MOTM/COTM Sept 2012 Pro Patria Vigilans.
Click the pic.. I don't tolerate fools.

Last edited by patriotpa; 07-22-2012 at 10:45 AM.
patriotpa is offline  
post #8 of 24 Old 07-22-2012, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
BUZZS20122LS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 47
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by patriotpa View Post
Have a careful look at the polarity of the speaker connections. If one is reversed, they will cancel out and give you lousy flat, dead sound.

As far as your fader problem, the wiring is definitely the issue.

You've got the right idea with the 6x9s needing to be sealed to the rear deck. The air gaps are ruining your low end, creating the same effect as having a ported enclosure with the port tuned to the wrong frequency.

Don't forget volume is not just about amplifier power. Speaker efficiency makes a HUGE difference as well.

For every 3dB increase in efficiency, sound output DOUBLES.

The speakers also have to be designed to work to complement each other, or a competent person needs to know what to select for to get a balanced sound.

Loud is easy. Good, CLEAN sound is hard, especially in car with a wide range of reflective, absorptive and resonant surfaces.

Did you ever notice how certain notes seem a great deal louder, and really shake the car? That's resonance, and it can be controlled.

I hope this helps.

Yes, I thought about checking the polarity, after all there were other errors so I woudn't be suprised. Yeah checking out the details of how the 6x9's are mounted would mean I'd have to take out the rear deck again, and I'd have to wait about till next weekend so the window film is not ruined.

Today I drove it for about 30 miles and stoped about every 10 minutes to make adjustments on the amplifier.
I should look at the owners manuel for it, didn't look in the box to see if it's evan there. But after many adjustments, I am now sure that just adjustments to the amp are not the problem. I think it is a little bit of this and a little bit of that which makes up the whole sum, in this case each or most of them being negatives.

The "punch" eq was set by them allmost on 0 which made it have a very placid and flat sound. The "gain" level was set about 2 which again, made it very placid and wimpy. Each change to these two made it necessary to change the EQ or it would get real boomy. It seems like any and all the bass I get is more like a boom, ultra low freq. which don't evan sound musical, sounds like somebody kicking a trash can down the street. I did try every possible way to adjust the head unit's tone controls (treb. mid. bass).. and the volume, and my ipod's volume. No luck, there was nothing more than more volume added, but not good quality clean volume, so basically it sounded better straight out the factory than it did over $800 later.

I'm going to check the polarity a.s.a.p cause I think if I'm going to have any chance at getting any of it removed, or replaced than I better call them the next business day (tomorrow). I don't want to try to buy more to solve the issues, especially when you look at how the 6x9's are mounted and other things I pointed out. They might say I need a sub-woofer and than it would start rocking but I think I'd be better off getting what I can removed by them and or refunded and than if later down the road I still want more, go somewhere else after careful research.

Besides if I just had to have more power, I should have gotten a power amp which has been designed with 4 inputs and 4 speaker outputs, than the fader would work. Or used two separate smaller amps. Also I think I'd have been much better off keeping the stock speakers until or if they got fryed. Thanks for the help
BUZZS20122LS is offline  
post #9 of 24 Old 07-26-2012, 04:11 PM
Member
 
Darkrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Garner, NC
Posts: 142
 
Garage
WTF did they do to your car man?

From what I see, these yahoos know how to connect speakers, but they know very little about installation.

It looks like from your pictures that they wired all 4 of your speakers to a 2 channel amp. I feel for you because I have very little faith that these guys can give you anything decent if that is what they sent you home with. Also, $345 for a P300-2?!?! I paid way less than that for a Power Series T400-4 (4 Channel) amp. I understand some install fees, but wow. I wish you the best man. Some audio shops are just terrible. If they didn't give you fair warning about the 2 channel amp and the fade control, I'd be heading back and raising hell.

Good luck man.

K&N Typhoon CAI * Flowmaster American Thunder cat-back exhaust * Hurst Short Throw Shifter * Black Phantom Grille * Pioneer AVH-P8400BH - Scosche Dash Kit - Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.3 - Rockford Fosgate T1000-1bdCP, T400-4, T1D215, T1692, T2652-S - SubThump 15" Camaro box - Dynamat Extreme - Stinger & Kicker RCA's - Monster, Tsunami, Streetwires, Scosche, and Kicker wiring - Stinger Distribution blocks - Tsunami Breakers - Tsunami and Rockford Fosgate set screw terminals
Darkrider is offline  
post #10 of 24 Old 07-26-2012, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
BUZZS20122LS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 47
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkrider View Post
WTF did they do to your car man?

From what I see, these yahoos know how to connect speakers, but they know very little about installation.

It looks like from your pictures that they wired all 4 of your speakers to a 2 channel amp. I feel for you because I have very little faith that these guys can give you anything decent if that is what they sent you home with. Also, $345 for a P300-2?!?! I paid way less than that for a Power Series T400-4 (4 Channel) amp. I understand some install fees, but wow. I wish you the best man. Some audio shops are just terrible. If they didn't give you fair warning about the 2 channel amp and the fade control, I'd be heading back and raising hell.

Good luck man.

I feel just how bad you think I feel, bottom line is this:

1: Stock stereo sounds GREAT, but it does not have much power.

2. Stock non-B.A. head unit does not have RCA outlets for an external amplifier, so adding an amp means you have to use adaptors, extra money plus you:
a: have to use a four channel amp if you want to be able to fade between front and rear.

b: I'm no expert on auto audio, but I think using the speaker outlets (with the required adaptors) yeilds tones and frequencies which sound muddy on the bass and shrill on the treble. It is also much more difficult to make all the needed adjustments of level output and amplifier's level inputs.

3. I think that if you are not satisfied with the stock non-Boston Acoustics sound system than if you want to upgrade it's sound, you need to start out with a new head unit and dash kit. The Crutchfield shows 168 head units that are compatible with my car, but compatible doesn't mean that they automatically will do everything like bluetooth.. but there are plenty of them that do everthing the factory stereo does pluss some (like a USB for the Ipod which did NOT come in my car). And, btw, my 2012 LS will only wirelessly stream my iphone's phone calls, it will NOT stream the music, for that you have to use the 3.5 MM phone plug. Again, there is NO USB outlet in my car, this is the first thing that bugged me about it cause I new the 2011 had it for sure.

So, starting from a new head unit, you now have RCA outlets to wire-up whichever amp you want to use. From what I read, the rear 6x9's might be able to handle the added wattage of an external amp but most posts say the door speakers will get blown. I can tell you that the factory speakers sound good so why not use them till they blow, maybe they won't.

If you change your rear 6x9's there is a needed adaptor bracket which is sold at Sub-thump, if you don't have them they will not fit and it would be like having an un-tuned ported cabinet. Mine as you see from pics, you can see the speaker grill on the plastic panel thru the holes in the steel deck.

So all this is word up from a non-expert, to non-experts, just to advise you from the logic of somebody on this side of the table. Sure if you take it to a great shop and they use great components, and they install it right, than you don't have to worry. But just make sure the shop you take it too is going to care, is going to install the unit right, locate the amp where it won't get too hot, all of that.

Where am I at right now?????????

Last couple days have not felt like or had time to drive it around and experiment, but a few days ago I did and here is what I found:

The rear deck speaker polarity was correct, can't check the doors without somebody to help me but I think I got to open up the panels anyway....why???

Because they didn't evan solder the rear deck's wires, they were just stuck thru the terminals and twisted (look at the pic I posted earlier of the 6x9, it shows a bit there though I didn't notice it)...so maybe they intended to solder them after everything was hooked up, but the fact is they didn't, and that is over the top slop

So I soldered the 6x9's terminals, no biggie for me I'm into that kinda thing...but I'd have to remove the door panels to check out if they soldered the leads there. Don't get confused, there were no push-on terminals added, the raw wires were just twisted and loosely wrapped around the speaker terminals, as if they were going to solder them on.

They also scratched the hell out of my interior plastic panels which are connected to the rear deck..when I removed it, I didn't cause one scratch at all.

They also left about a dozen of the wire scraps inside the car, you know the pieces that were cut off the ends when they strip the terminals. Yeah, if it was a 1981 Accord, who gives a *)#^# but this is brand new Camaro with less than 2K miles. No biggie to vacuum out whatever they left behind or tracked in, but this place is not where you trust a high-end car. I also had to wipe out the residue of the stuff from the window film which ran down all over the interior.

So, since I can not and would not trust them to touch my car again, than I certainly will not be back there asking about what we can do to solve it's poor sound quality. If everything was done neat and correct than maybe I'd pay the extra money to have a four or five channel amp exchanged for the 2 channel they installed. (five channel version has sub-woofer outlet).. and than maybe buy a sub-woofer if I still wasn't happy.

To rewind a bit, during the session I soldered the speaker leads and checked the polarity, I switched the speaker leads around so that the left channel is both front speakers and the right channel is both rear speakers. Than I drove it around stopping to make adjustments on the amp which was within arms reach. Making adjustments on the in-put level, the frequency, the "punch eq" and everthing the head's tone controls offer, I still could not achieve a good spectrum of sound quality and it was still tanted with a shrill treble and distortion thru-out with a lack of good tight bass. I know, I know you can not expect 3-way door and rear deck 6x9's to really thump out big bass, that's not what I expect but for what they are, and what it should be, it is defiantly poor sounding.

What is going to be my ultimate solution? Well first I say my solution does not include letting them work on my car anymore, period, I'm gullible at times but I'm no idiot!

If I do have anybody work on it for me, and I don't do it myself (which I'm prone to do since I'm kinda into that)..than I'll make sure the shop will not butcher the car in any way and that can be hard to do, if I had a way to scan their brains than maybe this could have been prevented. About the only way to know is to hear testimonials by many who have had high-end expensive cars audio systems modified there. And make sure it's not just the testimonials of those few select "show boats" which were given the kind of care anybody should expect.
Be specific about what you want the system to do, select the brand and model of the units you want, don't just buy whatever brand they suggest.

If I decide to keep going forward with a hot-rodded system, I think that I'd study up on the topic of using a head unit that does not have RCA outlets for an external amp. Maybe send email or phone some places to ask about that, I might be wrong, adaptors might not be causing the problems I describe (maybe). So to go further down the road with a hot-rodded system, than I'd get either a 4 channel amp or a 5 channel with sub-woofer outlet. Buying a new head unit would mean I'd have to also buy a dash kit, but if your going to do it, do it right.

My other alternative is to try and return the system to factory spec. by removing the amp, re-wiring everything and re-installing the door speakers, and
either installing a new set of factory 6x9's or taking out the new ones and re-installing them properly with the adaptors like those at sub-thump.

One good thing came about from all this though, you know how when you had the key on to listen to the stereo while your parked and you have the door open? You know that annoying ding ding ding ding ding ding door chime, well it doesn't do that anymore, but that is about the only thing which was improved.

Bottom line is if your going to ad an amp to the stock system, (non-B.A that is).. your probably better off starting out with a new in dash stereo unit and required dash kit. This way, you have RCA outlets which are going to give you a cleaner less muddy, distorted sound. I already said this but will repeat for the speed-readers: the factory stereo does not have RCA outlets for an external amp. As for the speakers, use the factory speakers till they fry, if they do than replace them. If you want great gobs of face contorting bass, you'd have to have a sub woofer. Make sure the amp is located where there is plenty of air circulation, make sure the shop uses any needed up grades on the wires or fuses. Read any books on car audio you can find, the more recent the better, and maybe browse thru magazine articles. There are probably online forums (like this one) which are focused on audio systems, which would be your most convenient source since you can search for specific topics. This one is good, not down-playing it but there are probably other forums which are for only the audio system. The online stores which show you what you can put into your car are also helpful, reviews of specific brands, feedback about products, etc. Actually hearing the system in a car like yours which has been hopped-up is also a great help. That way you can note where the amps have been located, types of hook-up wires, speaker wire, anything done to the battery or charging system, type and location of sub-woofer (s).

Again, I'm very thankful for the input offered, I'm open minded and tough skinned, I take no offense if somebody wants to point out simple errors in any assumption I've made. I'm no cheap-ass, I'd given them the permission to use any and all up-graded wires or cables they needed at my expense. BTW, when I called them up Monday, they said they do not refund any money on installed electronics, but they might use what I paid toward upgrades. No surprise there, I don't expect them to work for free or take back stuff that was installed, both these are good reason to do it yourself if you can. I was shocked at what the price was for a brand new amp exactly like they installed if I bought it off of ebay or other retailers. Not talking re-furbs either, I saw brand new in the box never used amps like mine on ebay for about $150 slightly + or less and also higher wattage four or five channel amps for not much more.

Darkrider: please post a link (if any) to your posts which go into detail about your sound system, I just read your upgrade list and see you went whole hog on it. Im in S.E. Michigan, anybody willing to recommend good audio shop in this area (48195) please do so..I'd like to know about any good shops for any performance upgrades I might consider also..all I've done so far is weather tech floor liners and the fudged up stereo.

Last edited by BUZZS20122LS; 07-26-2012 at 07:00 PM.
BUZZS20122LS is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the ModernCamaro.com - 5th Generation Camaro Enthusiasts forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome