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post #1 of 36 Old 04-11-2009, 12:09 AM Thread Starter
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Garage ideas?

Sooooo, I am rebuilding my garage.

It is going to be 24' wide, West to East gables.

It is going to be 20' deep, North to South overhangs.

Nothing out of the ordinary.

I am actually having a contractor of Home Depot's build it.
They are called Tuff Shed(sp?)

This is not set in stone, but the best option at this point.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Now, I need some ideas for the interior and would like to see
pics of your garages.

I am contemplating using kitchen cabinets for storage, but MDF
in High hunidity is not a good idea.

I already have my HObart MIG and I am about to buy a
Quincy Compressor and Dryer and a Scat Blast Media blaster.

We just bought stackable Maytag, I think, front loading washer
and dryers to be installed IN the garae in their own room IN
the garage.

There will be one large 16' door in the middle of the North side.

I plan on installing my JD2 Model 2 bender in the middle of the room
so I have plenty of room to slin pipe.

I want a LARGE rolling welding/fabrication table.

I need music and maybe some visual stmulation. No fishtanks!

Any insights on floor coatings would be great as well!

These are just ideas and I am looking for yours!

2005 CTSV BLACK LS7 Clutch/Flywheel/Slave, Tick Speed Bleeder, Tilton Clutch MC, RevShift Bushings, Domestic V8 Solutions (shifter, 8.8 Diff conversion, srut tower braces, sub-frame connectors), SLP cats, no cags, xpipe, bullet mufflers, Volante, iPod dock, G-force tune; 379hp 381tq.

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post #2 of 36 Old 04-11-2009, 04:56 AM
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Go all out, do this:



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post #3 of 36 Old 04-11-2009, 06:02 AM
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Is there going to be enough room for a lift or have you considered digging and pouring concrete for a service pit?
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post #4 of 36 Old 04-11-2009, 06:23 AM
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I have been renovating my garage ,getting ready for the new Camaro. It's
24'x24' with 8' ceilling. So far I have 7/16" OSB on the ceilling and Bead Board on the walls. I thouhgt the Bead Board would be more durable than Drywall plus no tape no mud. The next thing will be the classic black/white checker floor. As far as tools and storage, all that stuff is in the 30'x40' pole barn.
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post #5 of 36 Old 04-11-2009, 08:39 AM
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we've actually had kitchen cabinets in our attached garage for the past few years and no problems... and you know n'awlins has high humidity. here's a crummy pic, but it shows the cabinets. i think you'd be okay.



we are also looking into doing a coating on our floor. supposedly home depot has the system for a whole lot cheaper than U-Coat It.



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post #6 of 36 Old 04-11-2009, 08:43 AM
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I'm a garage snob, my wife hates that I'd rather upgrade in there than the garage. Include some type of garage floor coating. Be wary of the stuff in the kits from HD & Lowes, do your research. As another suggested, beadboard or paneling at the lower level will be more durable against scuffs and dents than drywall. I went to a cabinet store and bought some leftover/remnant/scratch & dent stuff and hung them. Got alot of stuff for about $300. Nothing too fancy but they're great for the garage, plain white, great for holding all my detailing and hand tools, etc. Good luck!
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post #7 of 36 Old 04-11-2009, 08:51 AM
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In a car mag I read awhile back, the whole floor was a checkered flag...it was pretty sick.

I'm too embarrased to post pics of my garage...it's wood and dirt. lol
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post #8 of 36 Old 04-11-2009, 09:08 AM
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Garage
My garage has two cars a motorcycle two bicycles and a whole lot of sport stuff. It is not the nicest room

June 2015 MOTM



"I live my life a quarter mile at a time, For those ten seconds or less, I'm free.
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post #9 of 36 Old 04-11-2009, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 54inches View Post
Sooooo, I am rebuilding my garage.

It is going to be 24' wide, West to East gables.

It is going to be 20' deep, North to South overhangs.

Nothing out of the ordinary.

I am actually having a contractor of Home Depot's build it.
They are called Tuff Shed(sp?)

This is not set in stone, but the best option at this point.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Now, I need some ideas for the interior and would like to see
pics of your garages.

I am contemplating using kitchen cabinets for storage, but MDF
in High hunidity is not a good idea.

I already have my HObart MIG and I am about to buy a
Quincy Compressor and Dryer and a Scat Blast Media blaster.

We just bought stackable Maytag, I think, front loading washer
and dryers to be installed IN the garae in their own room IN
the garage.

There will be one large 16' door in the middle of the North side.

I plan on installing my JD2 Model 2 bender in the middle of the room
so I have plenty of room to slin pipe.

I want a LARGE rolling welding/fabrication table.

I need music and maybe some visual stmulation. No fishtanks!

Any insights on floor coatings would be great as well!

These are just ideas and I am looking for yours!



As for Floor Coating listen I live in Texas and we have humidity up here in DFDUBYA as well lol I also have Family in Austin and those members have used the same garage floor epoxy as well.
My Neighbor puts this stuff on for a living so thats how I know of it so well lol
im basically going to paste and copy his e-mail from his work to you on here.


First off keep in mind Garage floor coatings fail for a number of reasons. First, the floor is usually not clean enough to receive a coating. Years of grime have to be removed using all solvents and cleaners you may have used on this flooring. These are sold at paint stores, hardware stores, home centers like home depot/Lowes and industrial supply houses. If the floor is really filthy, consider pressure washing. Rent a machine that produces at least 1200 to 2000 psi. Also buy some grease-cutting detergent at the rental store. Along similar lines, you might consider a steam cleaner if a pressure washer is unavailable they work the same

Another problem is moisture vapor. Moisture vapor from the ground works from below to loosen the coating's bond with the concrete. In the case of alkyd paints (also called oil-based paints), the moisture will react with the alkaline materials in the concrete and form a soap. This process is called saponification. The soap loosens the paint's bond with the concrete. Never use alkyd or modified alkyd paints on concrete, no matter what the clerk at the hardware store says.

And of course a car's tires are hot when it pulls into the garage. In the summer, the tires may be even too hot to touch. The heat can actually melt the paint and–combined with the pressure the car applies on the tires–even peel the paint. This is known, appropriately, as hot-tire pickup.
Important after you seal a floor give it time to dry I have always said give it a good 5 days or so before putting anything heavy like a car on it !!!!!!!! ITs cures to walk on in half a day.

Fortunately, there are ways to beat all these problems that are listed above .


The cool thing is Paint manufacturers have finally recognized these problems and have come to the rescue with new formulations. But a word of advice: If your garage floor sees heavy water leakage, if it's badly cracked or if it's damp and slimy all summer, don't apply any coating. In those cases, you're better off simply keeping it as clean as you can and then calling it quits.


As for what to use I have it in my Garage my Uncle has it in his garage in whichita Falls and my cousin has it in his Garage in Austin !!!!!!!!
Its called Epoxy Shield garage floor paint. It's a waterborne coating consisting of epoxy and acrylic resins with color chips that you sprinkle over it while the coating is wet. Its manufacturer says it is specifically formulated to withstand hot-tire pickup, moisture vapor and attack by solvents and chemicals that drip from a car or come in on the car's tires. It comes as a kit that consists of a cleaner-degreaser, two paint components that you mix together and nonskid color chips. First clean and degrease the floor, then mix the two-part coating together and roll it on. And finish up by broadcasting the nonskid chips onto the coating while it is still wet. The manufacturer says you can walk on the surface in 4 hours and drive on it after seven days when it is fully cured. The kit costs about $60 at home centers or you can contact

contact Epoxi Tech, 888-683-5667. or lol

http://paint-and-supplies.hardwarest...ng-101866.aspx


I give it its on all of my Families floors and we have thrown everything at our garage floors even Sparks from a cutting torch lol

Good luck bro
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post #10 of 36 Old 04-11-2009, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys and gals.

Daytona, that funny as that is the stuff that I was looking at.

I actually have done a ton of research on floors and everything your buddy says is 100% correct.

I will be adding two feet to the slap east and west and then powerwashing, doin a detergant scruba nd then an acid wash of the concrete to prepare it for the coating.

Now guys (JINX) with that said, and I should have noted this earlier, I want a NICE garage, but my wife and I are afraid once we get the house done we may want to stay here a few more years. Quite the pickle we have.

Why move from a house and garage that we just sunk $30,000 into and move to a house that we know nothing about!


ANyways, I found a local school district that has some very nice upper cabinets on auction.

I am going to go look at them next week. They look like solid wood, so the humidity issue just might resolve itsself.

No pit ot lift in this one, but the next one definitly a lift at the least.

Thanks trott, great idea!

Selena, thanks. BTW, is that you in your avatar. NICE!

I am having my father make up some cad drawings hopefully soon!

2005 CTSV BLACK LS7 Clutch/Flywheel/Slave, Tick Speed Bleeder, Tilton Clutch MC, RevShift Bushings, Domestic V8 Solutions (shifter, 8.8 Diff conversion, srut tower braces, sub-frame connectors), SLP cats, no cags, xpipe, bullet mufflers, Volante, iPod dock, G-force tune; 379hp 381tq.

Killing 5th gens like it is my job.
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