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Discussion Starter #1
Looking to do headers and tune soon, should i install a SLP 160 t-stat as well?? i know this was the routine with all of my 4th gen LS1 cars so i just wanna make sure
 

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You're gonna get a lot of opinions on this one for and against. All I can tell you is my car is a lot happier at the lower temp. Oil temp came down a bit as well with our "liquid cooled" oil cooler design :rolleyes:....

Now this doesn't mean that your car is gonna be running around at 160. Just that it "can" get down that low if the system could cool that much. The fact is you are gonna see it right around 174 cruising depending on outside temps....
 

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You're gonna get a lot of opinions on this one for and against. All I can tell you is my car is a lot happier at the lower temp. Oil temp came down a bit as well with our "liquid cooled" oil cooler design :rolleyes:....

Now this doesn't mean that your car is gonna be running around at 160. Just that it "can" get down that low if the system could cool that much. The fact is you are gonna see it right around 174 cruising depending on outside temps....
Thats pretty good i will be happy with that, right now my car runs at between 192-194 driving and 200-212 sitting in traffic, thats about a 20 degree drop, tuner will also turn on fans early so im sure that helps
 

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I believe 210 is about normal for a pushrod V8 engine. Just because your engine runs cooler with a lower stat doesn't mean that's benefiting the engine at all. Run it too cold and it will run rich. You want it to be in it's optimal operating temp for the best overall performance, efficiency, and wear. Your stock stat is fine...if anything, you can have the tuner adjust the fan to come on at a lower temp. But I wouldn't bother too much with it.
 

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I believe 210 is about normal for a pushrod V8 engine. Just because your engine runs cooler with a lower stat doesn't mean that's benefiting the engine at all. Run it too cold and it will run rich. You want it to be in it's optimal operating temp for the best overall performance, efficiency, and wear. Your stock stat is fine...if anything, you can have the tuner adjust the fan to come on at a lower temp. But I wouldn't bother too much with it.
yea i heard that most tuners require a 160 temp due to the tune and advancing of the timing in the engine, but i understand what u mean
 

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Great point, Chapel, and right on the money!:5go:
 

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yea i heard that most tuners require a 160 temp due to the tune and advancing of the timing in the engine, but i understand what u mean
It isn't necessary. At least not for a DDer. They can work around that. I have a custom tune with the stock stat. And most others have dyno tunes and custom tunes with the stock stat.
 

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It isn't necessary. At least not for a DDer. They can work around that. I have a custom tune with the stock stat. And most others have dyno tunes and custom tunes with the stock stat.
ok good to know, thanks Chapel, cant wait to modding starts!!
 

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Thats pretty good i will be happy with that, right now my car runs at between 192-194 driving and 200-212 sitting in traffic, thats about a 20 degree drop, tuner will also turn on fans early so im sure that helps
Yeah it works really well and having the fans reprogrammed is a big plus. I can sit at a stop forever and my t-stat/fans keep the car from getting over 196. It prob helps that I have an all aluminum 4 row radiator but you get the point....
 

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Yeah it works really well and having the fans reprogrammed is a big plus. I can sit at a stop forever and my t-stat/fans keep the car from getting over 196. It prob helps that I have an all aluminum 4 row radiator but you get the point....
well thats a big help right there lol!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
gonna throw one in, do i need to buy a gasket for this thing?? and easy swap?
 

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gonna throw one in, do i need to buy a gasket for this thing?? and easy swap?
Piece of cake. Just transfer the grooved o-ring seal from your old one if the new one doesn't come with one. My SLP t-stat came with a new one....

A couple of bolts (IIRC I didn't even remove the hose clamp) pull it back from the engine, spill coolant everywhere :rolleyes: swap it out and fill 'er back up (leave it a bit low to give it room to burp without spilling over). Run the engine with the rad cap off to start with while warning it up and top it off once the stat opens and you see it burp...
 

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Piece of cake. Just transfer the grooved o-ring seal from your old one if the new one doesn't come with one. My SLP t-stat came with a new one....

A couple of bolts (IIRC I didn't even remove the hose clamp) pull it back from the engine, spill coolant everywhere :rolleyes: swap it out and fill 'er back up (leave it a bit low to give it room to burp without spilling over). Run the engine with the rad cap off to start with while warning it up and top it off once the stat opens and you see it burp...
Cool, just hope i dont get any air pockets in there, what kind of antifreeze goes in there?? dexcool the orange stuff
 

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Cool, just hope i dont get any air pockets in there, what kind of antifreeze goes in there?? dexcool the orange stuff
You won't get air pockets, it burps out really easy. Dexcool ONLY! Cuz you will never get it all out and if there is any left and you mix with standard coolant you will end up with **** that is the consistency of JELLO! :eek:
 

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You won't get air pockets, it burps out really easy. Dexcool ONLY! Cuz you will never get it all out and if there is any left and you mix with standard coolant you will end up with **** that is the consistency of JELLO! :eek:
Yup i only used the dexcool stuff, everything worked good got the headers in and the coolant temp in traffic is 192, crusing down at 174 :thumbsup:
 
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