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Discussion Starter #1
What the V8 buyers will need to know, and what the V owners have battled for since 2008 when GM introduced the LLT DI V6.

The intake valve coking issue were seeing is nearly as severe even with the new oil baffle design.

The GM truck V8's and the Stingray for 2014 are all DI so we have a picture of whats to come.

This video is of the removal of the intake manifold and performing a manual intake valve cleaning:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Pz0zTQ1bz0

And so all understand why, in the past, the port injection engines the fuel injectors constantly showered the intake valves with fuel preventing the oil vapors from the PCV vapors baking onto the valves:



But now as the fuel no longer touches the intake valves, there is nothing preventing this build up and power and economy begin to gradually degrade as soon as the coking/deposits reach a point of disrupting the incoming airflow:



This also begins to wear the valve guides as this hard abrasive coating is drawn up into the guide:



And as this builds, the only way to truly clean is manually:



Ask any questions related to this. The prevention of it or how to deal with it once it has formed.
 

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Glad I don't have to worry about that
 

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Nice vid! I'm glad I put the catch can on my DI 5.3 in the Silverado!
 

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I have a 14 LFX with about 7k on it. Made my first oil change and replaced with Mobil1. What should I be looking for to prevent or minimize this from occurring? More importantly, why would a manufacturer design the DI engine in such a way as to not deal with this issue?

Thanks
 

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A good catch can, properly installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
PatriotPa is correct. The issue plagues all auto makers, 4 stroke outboards, motorcycles, and snow mobiles as well. It is not practical for any but the super car makers to implement a good solution due to cost and the fact that since you cannot reintroduce all the damaging contaminates to the crankcase, these must be emptied every oil change or sooner. Just look at the ignition switch debacle (GM's latest) where a $.50-.60 cent fix was ignored for 10 years. After an engine/vehicle is in production, an automaker can't just shut down until a solution is found.....most will never be aware as we live in a generation where 99% of vehicle owners don't even open their hood to check oil much less understand even the basics about their car.

The Ford ecoboost is such a mess as management thought they would save $ by using a NA type PCV system on a turbo engine so it only evacuates at idle and low RPM allowing most of the damaging combustion byproducts to accumulate in the crankcase causing this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dT0kpHpGQJ8

As the water, unburnt fuel, abrasive carbon and soot particles, etc. are not immediately evacuated from the crankcase as soon as they enter, they quickly accumulate mixing with the oil and causing all sorts of wear and related issues, so GM owners are in much better shape.

There will be no true solution from a auto maker until they can design a system that does not need to be emptied by the owner.

BMW, Audi, VW, etc. are some of the worst if you do a google search on "intake valve coking with direct injection" and click on images to see every single auto maker has this issue, yet not a single one admits it. All claim they do not, but as you can see in the pictures, every single one has major issues with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Don't let that one get past 1/4 full for best effectiveness. Nice to see what your preventing, you do NOT want that ingested! :thumbsup:
 

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Don't let that one get past 1/4 full for best effectiveness. Nice to see what your preventing, you do NOT want that ingested! :thumbsup:
Thanks man! Yeah I did a lot of reading on these DI engines thats why I installed one. Why not past a 1/4 full? Does it have enough pressure in there to start sucking it up if there's too much in there?
 

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By adding these catch cans i'm assuming by reading more and more threads that this will be reduced tremendously. So what is a good rule of thumb on checking/emptying the catch can? How fast should this accumulate oil? It seems that just after 1000 mile if you have a half full catch can, isn't that bad?
 
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