HELP there is a link some where on here about what a stock motor can or could handle can someone find it for me?????????:5go:
Just curious, what type of guaranty comes with a shop built 427 and how would it compare to that of a guaranteed SC build (time, disclaimers, cost (SLP charges a premium for coverage), etc)?Boosting a stock motor is a risk plain and simple. it can be done and lots of people do it... generally if you keep it mild and don't beat on it it can last for a while ..
I'm not a fan of it. I would rather do it right; run more timing and be faster without having to jump through hoops to have it be dependable.. Also at the mild boost levels the timing pull to keep it alive... it isnt that fast.. an all motor car will romp on it...
You can buy a kit form Edelbrock or Maggy with a supplemental warranty for the engine but you have to stick to their criteria or the warranty is void.
Engine built for boost are built differently than for n/a.. simple as that Gm wont just boost the LS3/L99 its compression is not desirable when combined with pump gas but the piston material and rings and bearings and rings gaps are also different on a boosted motor at the minimum...
If you stick to 6-8 lbs and run a meth kit and have good tuning and run good gages and electronics you can be ok ( no gaurantys).... or not.. stock engines fragging under boost happens all the time and the blame always gets put somewhere else than where it should be put which is: boosting a stock engine is a risk and is a bad idea IMHO.. doing it the correct way is a little more money up front but in the long run can be a lot less money. It also helps the resale value to do it correctly.
Meth kits help.. but beyond the fact your having to modify to accomdoate the kit and losing space doing it, its another system and it relys on electronics and relays ... which takes it a step down on the dependability ladder. The more complicated something is the more points for failure the less dependable.. thats a simple fact.
If you want to bost the stock engine we can help you do it but I always put my best advice first. Your looking at 7-9500 for a good kit with all the bells and whistles once your done with it all... I can build a 427 for about that money would rape it.
Spend $4650 on your bottom end first and then you can run some real boost and make real power and win races...
But boost it first and run the risk .. You dont build the roof and then put the house under it. s/c kits are big profit.. good advice sometimes doesnt sell parts.... I give advice first...LOL
I'm curious, why would you go this route if it was your only car? I'm having a Whipple installed October 16th. What should I watch out for?I'm on just under 8lbs at 640 rwhp. Lots of supporting mods though, not a DD, do not drag race, and I have another reliable vehicle for work. I do drive it hard around town and on country roads. I personally wouldn't have gone this route if this were my only car.
If it was my only car and a DD, I probably would have kept the stock SC pulley/tune and not added headers/cam to retain my warranty from SLP. I still would have added the SC though.I'm curious, why would you go this route if it was your only car? I'm having a Whipple installed October 16th. What should I watch out for?
The TVS SC is pretty bullet proof on these LS motors especially if you just go with the recommended pulley from Magnuson and stay around 5-6#'s of boost. I'd have no qualms whatsoever doing this set up on a DD.I'm curious, why would you go this route if it was your only car? I'm having a Whipple installed October 16th. What should I watch out for?