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HELP there is a link some where on here about what a stock motor can or could handle can someone find it for me?????????:5go:
 

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Boosting a stock motor is a risk plain and simple. it can be done and lots of people do it... generally if you keep it mild and don't beat on it it can last for a while ..

I'm not a fan of it. I would rather do it right; run more timing and be faster without having to jump through hoops to have it be dependable.. Also at the mild boost levels the timing pull to keep it alive... it isnt that fast.. an all motor car will romp on it...

You can buy a kit form Edelbrock or Maggy with a supplemental warranty for the engine but you have to stick to their criteria or the warranty is void.

Engine built for boost are built differently than for n/a.. simple as that Gm wont just boost the LS3/L99 its compression is not desirable when combined with pump gas but the piston material and rings and bearings and rings gaps are also different on a boosted motor at the minimum...

If you stick to 6-8 lbs and run a meth kit and have good tuning and run good gages and electronics you can be ok ( no gaurantys).... or not.. stock engines fragging under boost happens all the time and the blame always gets put somewhere else than where it should be put which is: boosting a stock engine is a risk and is a bad idea IMHO.. doing it the correct way is a little more money up front but in the long run can be a lot less money. It also helps the resale value to do it correctly.

Meth kits help.. but beyond the fact your having to modify to accomdoate the kit and losing space doing it, its another system and it relys on electronics and relays ... which takes it a step down on the dependability ladder. The more complicated something is the more points for failure the less dependable.. thats a simple fact.

If you want to bost the stock engine we can help you do it but I always put my best advice first. Your looking at 7-9500 for a good kit with all the bells and whistles once your done with it all... I can build a 427 for about that money would rape it.

Spend $4650 on your bottom end first and then you can run some real boost and make real power and win races...
But boost it first and run the risk .. You dont build the roof and then put the house under it. s/c kits are big profit.. good advice sometimes doesnt sell parts.... I give advice first...LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I seen on here in a link that I can't find 8-10lbs or up to 700hp is cool on a stock ls3 , I just want to read the link again
 

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I don't know who or what said 8-10 lbs of boost on an LS3/L99 is safe but I'd eye that one with caution or look for disclaimers. Maybe 5-7 but as CC said that's an awful lot of boost without meth kits etc. No way in heck I'd put that much boost on any N/A motor and expect it to live a year under my foot. I know a few people with boosted cars. They all say the same thing, "it's a matter of when not if with stock internals and boost".
 

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Some people are claiming 650 to over 700 RWHP...that's with headers, exhaust, a cam, meth, and intercooling, intake manifold, and some head porting. But you still have to take into account that the trans has to handle that power also. I think these engines and transmissions are very strong. I'd say 500 RWHP would make me happy and 550 RWHP is about as high as I would want to go. And you have to consider your driving style also.
 

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N/A build is a better way to go, you can always boost later, and it'll be built for it.
 

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I have over 8000miles since I had the twin turbo setup. I ran anywhere from 6-10psi with occasional 11psi kisses. Otherwise my car is stock, except for larger injectors or course. Tune Tune Tune....is the key. On about 8.5lbs...Im at 574/594 to the ground and you start hearing the whining of the twin babies at bout 2000-2200rpms.
 

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I'm on just under 8lbs at 640 rwhp. Lots of supporting mods though, not a DD, do not drag race, and I have another reliable vehicle for work. I do drive it hard around town and on country roads. I personally wouldn't have gone this route if this were my only car.
 

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Boosting a stock motor is a risk plain and simple. it can be done and lots of people do it... generally if you keep it mild and don't beat on it it can last for a while ..

I'm not a fan of it. I would rather do it right; run more timing and be faster without having to jump through hoops to have it be dependable.. Also at the mild boost levels the timing pull to keep it alive... it isnt that fast.. an all motor car will romp on it...

You can buy a kit form Edelbrock or Maggy with a supplemental warranty for the engine but you have to stick to their criteria or the warranty is void.

Engine built for boost are built differently than for n/a.. simple as that Gm wont just boost the LS3/L99 its compression is not desirable when combined with pump gas but the piston material and rings and bearings and rings gaps are also different on a boosted motor at the minimum...

If you stick to 6-8 lbs and run a meth kit and have good tuning and run good gages and electronics you can be ok ( no gaurantys).... or not.. stock engines fragging under boost happens all the time and the blame always gets put somewhere else than where it should be put which is: boosting a stock engine is a risk and is a bad idea IMHO.. doing it the correct way is a little more money up front but in the long run can be a lot less money. It also helps the resale value to do it correctly.

Meth kits help.. but beyond the fact your having to modify to accomdoate the kit and losing space doing it, its another system and it relys on electronics and relays ... which takes it a step down on the dependability ladder. The more complicated something is the more points for failure the less dependable.. thats a simple fact.

If you want to bost the stock engine we can help you do it but I always put my best advice first. Your looking at 7-9500 for a good kit with all the bells and whistles once your done with it all... I can build a 427 for about that money would rape it.

Spend $4650 on your bottom end first and then you can run some real boost and make real power and win races...
But boost it first and run the risk .. You dont build the roof and then put the house under it. s/c kits are big profit.. good advice sometimes doesnt sell parts.... I give advice first...LOL
Just curious, what type of guaranty comes with a shop built 427 and how would it compare to that of a guaranteed SC build (time, disclaimers, cost (SLP charges a premium for coverage), etc)?
 

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I'm on just under 8lbs at 640 rwhp. Lots of supporting mods though, not a DD, do not drag race, and I have another reliable vehicle for work. I do drive it hard around town and on country roads. I personally wouldn't have gone this route if this were my only car.
I'm curious, why would you go this route if it was your only car? I'm having a Whipple installed October 16th. What should I watch out for?
 

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I'm curious, why would you go this route if it was your only car? I'm having a Whipple installed October 16th. What should I watch out for?
If it was my only car and a DD, I probably would have kept the stock SC pulley/tune and not added headers/cam to retain my warranty from SLP. I still would have added the SC though.
 

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05 LS2 here with a M112 making 10 PSI stock with headers, Meth and Super Chiller. LS1 Monaro's were available Super Charged in AU and England stock.
 

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I'm curious, why would you go this route if it was your only car? I'm having a Whipple installed October 16th. What should I watch out for?
The TVS SC is pretty bullet proof on these LS motors especially if you just go with the recommended pulley from Magnuson and stay around 5-6#'s of boost. I'd have no qualms whatsoever doing this set up on a DD.


I have one on my truck and ran like a factory truck, only it was quite a bit faster. I recently pulleyed down and put a cam in. Motor runs very well. I don't beat on it and haven't had it to the track yet but it starts on a sub freezing morning with no problems, makes good power. I'm just breaking things aft of the motor now LOL.
 
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