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I have come across a 90 IROC 19K miles out of Calif. Orig 1 owner car. Ever option avail except for leather and louvers. Owner has every piece of paper. Problem is owner wants almost 17K. Can anyone justify this cost? I can't and am wondering if he knows something that I do not. Would love to buy the car, but cant find one for over 10K anywhere. Any help or suggestions that I can get him to a more realistic number, or am I the one who is out of line? Thank you. C
 

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I have come across a 90 IROC 19K miles out of Calif. Orig 1 owner car. Ever option avail except for leather and louvers. Owner has every piece of paper. Problem is owner wants almost 17K. Can anyone justify this cost? I can't and am wondering if he knows something that I do not. Would love to buy the car, but cant find one for over 10K anywhere. Any help or suggestions that I can get him to a more realistic number, or am I the one who is out of line? Thank you. C
How many original IROC's w/ only 19k miles have you seen? Probably not many...that is why the price is jacked up. Compare it to the IROC's you are seeing for under 10k...I would bet it's just a "little nicer". If not, move on and buy one that's cheaper.

If it's totally original and unmolested...it's worth some extra $$ without a doubt. I would think a lot of them are pretty hacked up.
 

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It's not uncommon to find babied third-gens fetching close to $20k, the '90 Iroc was the last year for it, so that'll definitely help him, and it being a 5.7L.

Goodluck.
 

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It's worth it. That's a reasonable price. Certainly try to bargain with him though... offer him... $13,000. If he laughs, $13,500. I do this everytime a buy a car. I don't care how insulting it is, it saves me a buttload of money! I just bought a '02 Mazda Protege, mint, dealer wanted $9,980, I got them down to $4,700!!! I would bet that you could drive it away $16,000. Definitley to to get him down, but if he is unwilling to budge, $17k really isn't a bad deal. It's a rare car!
 

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Thank you for all the helpful replies. I appreciate it. Going to add to my stable of cars. Just and I know it is not accurate but NADA and KBB and internet searches could not show me a IROC of that caliber for that price. Much appreciated.
 

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I have come across a 90 IROC 19K miles out of Calif. Orig 1 owner car. Ever option avail except for leather and louvers. Owner has every piece of paper. Problem is owner wants almost 17K. Can anyone justify this cost? Any help or suggestions that I can get him to a more realistic number, or am I the one who is out of line? Thank you. C
Easy way to get him to lower the price show up with a gun and a ski mask.. Bet he will give it to u for nothing.. :lol: Over the years I have learned one important thing about people that sell cars ( Privately ). They always think there car is worth alot more then it is most times.

Your not out of line but, In reality something is only worth what someone is willing to pay for that item. Now if you really think the car has what you like and just think its too much. Keep an eye on it and see if over time he/she doesnt sell the car they might change there mind on the price.

If you keep in touch with them down the road they might start considering your offer and might take it. Has worked for me more then a few times.. Might help you.. Question.. Did it have the Bose system with amps and rear deck speakers and power antenna and rear window louvers? If it has those then its worth about that Minus for the color.. At least to me.. :p Good Luck.
 

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Considering they stopped producing the '90 model in December 1989, it's certainly more rare than the others. '90 was a special year.
Hey Demon.. Are you sure they stopped in 89?? I had one that had a build date of sept. 90..
 

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It's worth it. That's a reasonable price. Certainly try to bargain with him though... offer him... $13,000. If he laughs, $13,500. I do this everytime a buy a car. I don't care how insulting it is, it saves me a buttload of money! I just bought a '02 Mazda Protege, mint, dealer wanted $9,980, I got them down to $4,700!!! I would bet that you could drive it away $16,000. Definitley to to get him down, but if he is unwilling to budge, $17k really isn't a bad deal. It's a rare car!
You never want to insult a private seller. Since well its insulting and probably wont talk to you anymore.. A dealer you can basically do whatever since that is his job.. Theres a clear difference..
 

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You may of had an RS, but not a IROC... unless it was a Dodge Daytona.
No it was a Blue IROC-Z TPI 350 with T-Tops.. Where is that info from? Im going to look for the info too while I am at it..
 

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No it was a Blue IROC-Z TPI 350 with T-Tops.. Where is that info from? Im going to look for the info too while I am at it..
It also would not of had t-tops if it were a L98. They stopped that combination after the '89 model year.

Anyway, I think the only place to find third gen info anymore is thirdgen.org in their tech data section.
 

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WRAITHSS said:
Hey Demon.. Are you sure they stopped in 89?? I had one that had a build date of sept. 90..

WRAITHSS said:
No it was a Blue IROC-Z TPI 350 with T-Tops.. Where is that info from? Im going to look for the info too while I am at it..
he is 100% right. GM lost the IROC (International Race of Champions) deal in 1989 so any one built after 12/89 would be just a Z28. Sorry, your car built 9/90 is just a Z28, maybe an IROC clone but it is by no means an IROC Z28.

As far as the TTop and 350 goes... this has been in debat since the begining of time. It was availiable but not recommended. the torque from the 350 would cause the car to twist. I am pretty sure you could get it through 92 with the ttop. You could NEVER get the 350 with a manual thought.

Here is my car:

89 IROC~Z, 350 TPI A4, no ttop or stripes, got it new 6/2/89

 

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WRAITHSS, I'm curious about your car. Do you have any specific information regarding it? I don't believe one would just say they have a car like you're mentioning without some reasoning behind it.

Pictures would be helpful, and even a VIN.
 

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WRAITHSS, I'm curious about your car. Do you have any specific information regarding it? I don't believe one would just say they have a car like you're mentioning without some reasoning behind it.

Pictures would be helpful, and even a VIN.
Correct me if I am wrong, he is saying he has a blue 1990 IROC built 9/90, 350 with ttop?

The only thing that is not possible is the 9/90. It has to be a clone or it was built 9/89, that would make it a 1990 IROC.
 

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Correct me if I am wrong, he is saying he has a blue 1990 IROC built 9/90, 350 with ttop?

The only thing that is not possible is the 9/90. It has to be a clone or it was built 9/89, that would make it a 1990 IROC.
I will continue my assertion that CC1 was not available in 90-92 with G92.
 

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I will continue my assertion that CC1 was not available in 90-92 with G92.
Thats fine but you do know that G92 is the performance rear axel not the 350 which was RPO BL2 in 1990. So what are we talking about here? Are we talking about ttop cars (CC1) having the 350 (BL2) or having the performance rear axel (G92)? My car does not have the G92 nor the CC1 option so i am not sure if you could get a ttop car with the axel.

And there were 4213 IROC Z coupes and 1294 IROC Z conv. in 1990.
 

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Thats fine but you do know that G92 is the performance rear axel not the 350 which was RPO BL2 in 1990. So what are we talking about here? Are we talking about ttop cars (CC1) having the 350 (BL2) or having the performance rear axel (G92)? My car does not have the G92 nor the CC1 option so i am not sure if you could get a ttop car with the axel.

And there were 4213 IROC Z coupes and 1294 IROC Z conv. in 1990.
G92 was standard on 99% of 90-92 L98 & LB9/T5 cars. This is why I say no CC1 with G92 (it encompasses what I need it to :D )
 
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