[RedJewel2SS]

page 8-17:

New Vehicle Break-In
Notice: Follow these recommended guidelines during the first 2 414 km/1,500 miles of driving this vehicle. Parts have a break‐in period and performance will be better in the long run.

. For the first 2 414 km/ 1,500 miles:
. Avoid full throttle starts and abrupt stops.
. Do not exceed 4,000 engine rpm.
. Avoid driving at any one constant speed, fast or slow.
. Do not drive above 160 km/h (100 mph).
. Avoid downshifting to brake or slow the vehicle when the engine speed will exceed 4000 RPM.
. Do not let the engine labor. Never lug the engine in high gear at low speeds. With a manual transmission, shift to the next lower gear. This rule applies at all times, not just during the break‐in period.
. Do not participate in racing events, sport driving schools, or similar activities
during this break‐in period.
. Check engine oil with every refueling and add if necessary. Oil and fuel consumption may be higher than normal during the first 2 414 km/1,500 miles.
. To break in new tires, drive at moderate speeds and avoid hard cornering for the first 322 km/200 miles. New tires do not have maximum traction and may tend to slip.
. New brake linings also need a break‐in period. Avoid
making hard stops during the first 322 km/200 miles. This is recommended every time brake linings are replaced.
. Should the vehicle be used for racing or competitive driving (after break‐in), the rear axle lubricant must be replaced before hand.

 

[2010_5thgen]

im all setup to get my gear lube done on friday.

 

[firehawk952]

oil changes

No wonder there's an oil shortage.People on here change their oil too often.I changed my oil first time at 15,000 miles with 7 percent oil life remaining and sent it out to an oil analysis service.No problem with the old oil.I just checked the rear oil at 17,000 miles and it is still clear with no metal on the drain plug,its staying in there until 50,000.I would stick to gm gear oil.i have seen nothing but problems with royal purple,red line and some other synthetic gear oils.

 

[POWERFREAK]

No wonder there's an oil shortage.People on here change their oil too often.I changed my oil first time at 15,000 miles with 7 percent oil life remaining and sent it out to an oil analysis service.No problem with the old oil.I just checked the rear oil at 17,000 miles and it is still clear with no metal on the drain plug,its staying in there until 50,000.I would stick to gm gear oil.i have seen nothing but problems with royal purple,red line and some other synthetic gear oils.

I agree to a point...I'm not sure I'd want to trust an oil filter for 15,000 miles though.

 

[stormyone]

No wonder there's an oil shortage.People on here change their oil too often.I changed my oil first time at 15,000 miles with 7 percent oil life remaining and sent it out to an oil analysis service.No problem with the old oil.I just checked the rear oil at 17,000 miles and it is still clear with no metal on the drain plug,its staying in there until 50,000.I would stick to gm gear oil.i have seen nothing but problems with royal purple,red line and some other synthetic gear oils.

Finally some reasonable voices.... I posted in another place the recommendations by GM regarding oil changes, a study about oil life, and the reason our cars were given the oil life monitors... when I asked if people would trust the research and technology or tradition, i.e. changing oil every 3000 miles, most said they would trust tradition... Why would you buy a car with advanced technology then trust a tradition that has been disproven? I don't get it

 

[2010_5thgen]

if your a very conservative driver and your looking for the bext mpg out of your ss, then id say, sure, change your oil every 15k. but for anyone who drives their car, no way in hell should you wait for anywhere close to 10k. thats stupid.

 

[2010_5thgen]

butthen again, it is your car. do what you want. so if i want to change it every 3k, im gonna change it every 3k.

 

[stormyone]

if your a very conservative driver and your looking for the bext mpg out of your ss, then id say, sure, change your oil every 15k. but for anyone who drives their car, no way in hell should you wait for anywhere close to 10k. thats stupid.

Not according to GM... from GM, take it for what its worth.....

The GM Oil Life System is a computer based software algorithm that determines when to change oil based on engine operating conditions. There is no actual oil condition sensor. Rather, the computer continuously monitors engine-operating conditions to determine when to change oil.

http://www.gm.com/corporate/responsibility/environment/maintenance/simplified_maintenance_qa_040104.jsp

How many miles can a vehicle go between oil changes when using this system?
The system allows GM customers to take advantage of the great strides that have been made in engine design and lubrication technology over the years. Depending on the vehicle/engine combination, driving conditions and driver habits, OLS equipped vehicles may extend oil change intervals significantly compared to the traditional 3,000 mile recommendation. However, based on driving conditions and type of vehicle the interval can vary. For instance, mild highway driving in a warm climate will maximize the interval between oil changes. Depending on the vehicle this could be in excess of 12,000 miles. On the other hand, short trip driving in a cold climate may limit the oil change interval to 3,000 miles or less.

http://www.gm.com/corporate/respons...ntenance/simplified_maintenance_qa_040104.jsp

 

[stormyone]

From another article... again, take it for what its worth...

Getting just one oil analysis only tells a tiny piece of the picture. It essentially would serve only as a pass/fail mechanism; without a trend to monitor, the most interesting parts of the analysis would be impossible to see.

Total base number is a moving target. There are multiple methods for testing it, which makes comparisons between laboratories worthless, and none of the methods have repeatability rates worth getting excited about. While TBN is worth considering as part of the larger picture, as a singular measure it is too flawed to rely on.

Engine wear actually decreases as oil ages. This has also been substantiated in testing conducted by Ford Motor Co. and ConocoPhillips, and reported in SAE Technical Paper 2003-01-3119. What this means is that compulsive oil changers are actually causing more engine wear than the people who let their engine's oil get some age on it.

Topping up the crankcase is a critical component of extended oil change intervals, and frequent filter changes are most likely the key to extreme-length intervals. The cumulative effect of even minor top-ups, let alone a filter change, substantially increases the longevity of the oil.

Based on the results we've got here, we'd recommend 8,000 miles between oil changes on an engine that uses no oil at all, perhaps 10,000 miles on an engine that uses some oil, and 15,000 miles or beyond with a filter change every 5,000 miles. This, of course, isn't any kind of guarantee, and you must evaluate for yourself what your engine requires. One thing we're pretty sure about though: 3,000-mile intervals is a huge waste of resources.

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html

 

[stormyone]

By the way, my car is a daily driver, I've had it for 2 months and have 5800 miles on the clock already.... the Oil Life Monitor says the oil change should happen around 10k... so I'll trust the technology, afterall they did warranty the engine... maybe they do know a little something about it....

Should oil be changed every 3,000 miles?
Over the years, there have been numerous advancements made in engine and oil technology, as well as a more thorough understanding of the mechanisms involved in oil degradation. These advancements allow vehicles equipped with the GM Oil Life System to maximize the time between oil changes without risking harm the engine. Our confidence in the GM Oil Life System is backed up by GM’s 5-year, 100,000 mile Powertrain limited warranty. All vehicle owners should consult their owner’s manual for the appropriate oil change recommendation.

http://www.gm.com/corporate/respons...ntenance/simplified_maintenance_qa_040104.jsp

 

[tradosaurus]

page 8-17:

BORING!! :homer:

Drive it like you stole it!

 

[DS Racing]

I will agree in the advancement of engine oils and their extended performance, but changing your oil regularly is cheap insurance in protecting your engine. There is no way I would trust an electronic sensor in telling me when I should change my oil. Is it overkill in doing it so regimented when using full synthetic oils, maybe, but the last thing I want is bearing failure when I’m bring it up through the revs. I use nothing but Torco oil in my race car and at that, I change it every 16 to 20 runs at $15+ a quart. Again Cheap insurance and I’ve seen the bearing and valvetrain life extended because of it. As far as Driveline fluids Yellow 2SS in right on target with Red Line products. I’ll be switching out my tranny and rear-end fluids shortly with Red Line. The cling factor and protection of their Shock Proof oils are the best in the industry.

 

[stormyone]

I will agree in the advancement of engine oils and their extended performance, but changing your oil regularly is cheap insurance in protecting your engine. There is no way I would trust an electronic sensor in telling me when I should change my oil. Is it overkill in doing it so regimented when using full synthetic oils, maybe, but the last thing I want is bearing failure when I’m bring it up through the revs. I use nothing but Torco oil in my race car and at that, I change it every 16 to 20 runs at $15+ a quart. Again Cheap insurance and I’ve seen the bearing and valvetrain life extended because of it. As far as Driveline fluids Yellow 2SS in right on target with Red Line products. I’ll be switching out my tranny and rear-end fluids shortly with Red Line. The cling factor and protection of their Shock Proof oils are the best in the industry.

I take it you didn't read the articles I provided a link to? There is NO electronic sensor. From the article, I have highlighted the important phrases:

The GM Oil Life System is a computer based software algorithm that determines when to change oil based on engine operating conditions. There is no actual oil condition sensor. Rather, the computer continuously monitors engine-operating conditions to determine when to change oil.

How does it work?
In all internal combustion engines, the primary driver in oil degradation is the combustion event. Every time the engine fires, a small volume of oil is directly exposed to, and destroyed by, this high-temperature, high-pressure event. Furthermore, combustion gases containing acids, fuel, and water get past the piston rings and react with, and degrade the engine oil. In addition to the combustion event, oil temperature plays a role in oil degradation. As oil temperature increases the oxidation rate of the oil speeds up, which can lead to oil thickening over time. On the other hand, colder oil temperatures increase the concentration of contaminants, such as fuel and water in the oil. The GM Oil Life System comprehends these oil degradation processes, and using an algorithm, calculates the optimal time to change the engine oil. While the basic algorithm is the same for all GM engines, each engine gets its own calibration specifically tailored to its unique needs.

So its a computer program that is run by the on board computer... so if a person trusts the car's computer's for other functions, why not this one?

 

[DS Racing]

Stormyone,
Okay my BAD, I said "Sensor" and should have said "Oil Degradation Process". I guess I'm old school and base my experience in the teardowns I've done with my engine builder. A decent Stocker motor can run you between 10 to 15K and that's only good for about 120 runs, before you refresh it and trust me the oil you run and the effort you put it keeping it clean can make the differce betwwen a $2,500 refresh to $4,500+ refresh.
Bottom line is that I know how bad I've been winging the motor and the conditions I have been driving in, rather than basing it on Therory and input of data, I base it on Seat Time! Thanks for the clarification on GM Oil Life System.
Hey...Differnet options are what makes the world go around, so I guess we're doing are part in keeping it on track:thumbsup:

 

[stormyone]

Stormyone,
Okay my BAD, I said "Sensor" and should have said "Oil Degradation Process". I guess I'm old school and base my experience in the teardowns I've done with my engine builder. A decent Stocker motor can run you between 10 to 15K and that's only good for about 120 runs, before you refresh it and trust me the oil you run and the effort you put it keeping it clean can make the differce betwwen a $2,500 refresh to $4,500+ refresh.
Bottom line is that I know how bad I've been winging the motor and the conditions I have been driving in, rather than basing it on Therory and input of data, I base it on Seat Time! Thanks for the clarification on GM Oil Life System.
Hey...Differnet options are what makes the world go around, so I guess we're doing are part in keeping it on track:thumbsup:

makes sense... thanks for sharing how you approach it.... I've learned something this evening, I appreciate your patience....

 

[Ken]

We did the Differential fluid today. It had 3300 miles on it and looked kinda gray, not much metal on the magnet. The mechanic at the dealer tryed to talk me out of changing it, but he changed his tune after seing the old fluid. He said he did not know what would cause that color and said it sure did not hurt changing it.

Thanks for the tip.:5go:

 

[Rock-it Man]

We did the Differential fluid today. It had 3300 miles on it and looked kinda gray, not much metal on the magnet. The mechanic at the dealer tryed to talk me out of changing it, but he changed his tune after seing the old fluid. He said he did not know what would cause that color and said it sure did not hurt changing it.

Thanks for the tip.:5go:

The service manual says:

Fluid that is "black" in color is to be considered normal and is darkened by the carbon material in the clutch plates.

So, unless you are going racing, there really is no point in changing it.

 

[Ken]

I may not have been black, but it was not the color of the fresh stuff.

I only saw a couple of drops, It was gray. The more I think about it it was a little milky.

I have a friend at the Cadilliac dealer. He said there was a big recal on pinion seals on one of the Cadilliacs. The recall supplied 2 quarts of fluid, but only needed 1/2 qt. He hooked me up with 2 quarts. I bought the additive, $10.

Since the fluid was free,minus $10 , I'd say it was money well spent.

 

[slims00ls1z28]

I was kinda shocked to see that it only holds a quart.

Just an FYI, I spoke to John Richmond (of Richmond Gear)...for their gears, they recommend sticking with the GM Fluid and NOT Royal Purple.

X2

Especially if their other fluids are like their engine oils. One cranky old dude on another site I'm on does that oil analysis stuff for people. Send vials and he tells you all about your oil. One thing remained the same of all fluids he tested, RP had the same protection as water after a couple of thousand miles. Says it breaks down too much too soon.

 

[Trott]

This is off the Mobil 1 site, so do I or don't I add the limited slip additive?


Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube LS 75W-90 contains special friction modifiers designed for limited slip-type differentials. In most applications, the addition of special LS (limited slip) additives is not required. For axles requiring the highest level of limited-slip performance, OEM specific LS additives can be added to this fluid.