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About a week ago my check engine light, and Stabili Track light came on. I took the car to both Advance Auto, and Auto Zone had both places run the codes, both places told me the coli pack #1 was bad. I replaced the coil pack which they said was the first one on the drivers side, and plugs engine/ Stabili lights went off for an hour and came back on.

Then I went back and they said it had to be a plug wire so I replaced all of them as well.
No change the lights stayed on.

Stabili light goes on and off, check engine stays on.
When Stabili light comes on car shakes and idles rough.


Any suggestions?
 

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Yeah. Don't let parts places diagnose your car.
Seriously.

So far they got you for a coil pack, and a set of plug wires.


Get it to the dealer. It's cheaper in the long run.

Take your original parts with you.
 

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ユキヒョウ
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What Camaro do you have? Yr. V6 or V8 ? What they should've told you was the error code(s).....there's probably lots of things that can cause your condition and this should've been a dealer visit.
 

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Whenever you have a cylinder issue, start easy.

Easiest thing to do is make sure the coil wires are connected and the spark plug is snug. Check for vacuum leaks. Look over your hoses and electrical connections. Make sure everything looks fine. Go over it three times to make sure you didn't miss anything. If need be, get a picture and compare it.

If the problem persists then disconnect the fuel injector plug and coil wire one at a time to see if there is any change in idle. If there is no change then there is definitely an issue in that cylinder. So next easiest step is to look at the fuel injectors. Swap the injector of the problem cylinder over and see what happens. If the problem moves to the new cylinder then you know it was the injector. If the problem stays then you need to go to the next step. Now is when you swap the coil pack wire of the cylinder in trouble with the next coil pack wire. If the issue switches and follows the wire, then it is the wire that is giving you trouble. If the issue stays in the initial cylinder, then it is not a coil wire so move on to the spark plug. Simply remove the spark plug and check it for hair line cracks. Check the gap on it. If it looks fine, then swap it to the next cylinder like you did with the coil pack wire. If the problem switches to the next cylinder, then the plug was the problem, if not, then it wasn't the plugs and this is when I would start to worry a little. Now you want to check the coil packs. That is when you wanna swap/replace it and see if that was the issue all along.

If you get to that point and nothing solved the issue then you need to look deeper. Maybe the gasket on the IM port is bad. Maybe something is loose. It might be a good idea at that point to have it look at by a shop...and not someplace like AutoZone or PepBoys, lol!! Hopefully it won't be something like a mechanical issue on the engine or in the cylinder. Good luck with it.
 

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Whenever you have a cylinder issue, start easy.

Easiest thing to do is make sure the coil wires are connected and the spark plug is snug. Check for vacuum leaks. Look over your hoses and electrical connections. Make sure everything looks fine. Go over it three times to make sure you didn't miss anything. If need be, get a picture and compare it.

If the problem persists then disconnect the fuel injector plug and coil wire one at a time to see if there is any change in idle. If there is no change then there is definitely an issue in that cylinder. So next easiest step is to look at the fuel injectors. Swap the injector of the problem cylinder over and see what happens. If the problem moves to the new cylinder then you know it was the injector. If the problem stays then you need to go to the next step. Now is when you swap the coil pack wire of the cylinder in trouble with the next coil pack wire. If the issue switches and follows the wire, then it is the wire that is giving you trouble. If the issue stays in the initial cylinder, then it is not a coil wire so move on to the spark plug. Simply remove the spark plug and check it for hair line cracks. Check the gap on it. If it looks fine, then swap it to the next cylinder like you did with the coil pack wire. If the problem switches to the next cylinder, then the plug was the problem, if not, then it wasn't the plugs and this is when I would start to worry a little. Now you want to check the coil packs. That is when you wanna swap/replace it and see if that was the issue all along.

If you get to that point and nothing solved the issue then you need to look deeper. Maybe the gasket on the IM port is bad. Maybe something is loose. It might be a good idea at that point to have it look at by a shop...and not someplace like AutoZone or PepBoys, lol!! Hopefully it won't be something like a mechanical issue on the engine or in the cylinder. Good luck with it.
Excellent diagnostic writeup, Chapel, and I do diagnostics for a living! (electronics)
 

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Excellent diagnostic writeup, Chapel, and I do diagnostics for a living! (electronics)
Thanks man. I always start off with the easiest and cheapest way to approach a problem. I learned that the hardway. Because many times in the past I was soo deadset on the thought that it was surely this or that issue and didn't go thru my process and ended up wasting money and time.
 
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