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Discussion Starter #1
I have the 2013 2SS RS auto with the LS3 and I am trying to keep it a daily driver but I want it at mid to high 600's on RWHP and someone had said you can do this without a supercharger which I would love to do if anyone can guide me in the right direction thank you.
 

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>600hp at the rear wheels?

Not without serious engine and driveline work, N/A or F/I.

The LS3 will take ~600hp @ the CRANK. That much at the wheels is going to cost you.
 
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A few questions for you:

1. Why 600 to the wheels?
2. Will this car be raced on the track? If so, what track, Oval, 1/8 mile, 1/4 mile, etc. ?
3. Budget?
5. What tires will you be running?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
It will be a track car I will be trying to run in the PPIHC in 2019 my budget is 20k and as far as tires I would like suggestions on that as well. But I want to be able to go buy milk if I have to even though getting in and out of the car with a roll cage sucks still would like to be able to drive it once in a while off the track.
 

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You need to talk to a pro. Hopefully one of our builders will chime in.
 

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I can give you some guidance. First off, the above reply's are correct. 600 HO the most cost effective will be a supercharger. One of the top mounts like Magnuson is a good fit as you will want torque to move you. Figure $7-8 k max installed and tuned complete. Then, I assume your a manual trans (LS3 instead of L99), so clutch will be a choice you need to make that will hold the power and TQ but still allow quick up and down shifting for that race/ Suspension. Look at BMR or similar, and call and talk to one of the techs there direct. They can guide you on all that is needed, and coil overs on all 4 corners to allow adjustment for the conditions. You will be running pavement, dirt, gravel, and possibly ice and snow at the top...even in the best hot summer, the conditons change rapidly on top. Brakes, this is critical as you cannot afford any fade. Choosing the right pads/rotors/calipers could save your life. Call EBC or similar tech line for suggestions. You will also need an approved roll bar/cage, get one made from CM and not mild steel to save on weight. 5 point harness as well, fire suite, helmet, shoes and gloves and may require necker as well.

Tires will be also critical, again as conditions can be sunshine when you start, turn to rain, and then snow/ice. So a still sidewall competition tire with aggressive tread.

Lot's more to this, but PM if you want to discuss more.

Good luck!!!
 

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For 600 hp, yea your best bet is forced induction. I'm not sure how much it would cost to build a NA 600 hp engine but I would assume the price is astronomical. Look at it like this, the GM small block 427 gives you 505 hp at the crank and that thing costs over $16,000. At that price you could supercharge your car, add suspension mods, make well over 600 hp to the wheels, and have a lot of money left over, lol! So for your goals, think blower.

These engines can handle 550-600 hp to the wheels easily. Once you go over 600 hp is where you have to be careful. 650 and you're likely gonna break something. Lots of guys out there claim to be making 700 or even more on a stock bottom end. I do not recommend pushing the block that far unless you have a built engine ready to drop in and you just wanna see what it could handle. So shoot for 600 or less.

Lots of systems out there will get you into the 500s easily for about $7,000. Procharger P1SC will get you in the 550 range with LT headers, ported or FAST IM, and other supporting mods. It can be pushed for more but it seems that around 550 is their limit. The D1SC is a $300 upgrade over the P1SC and it can make much much more. Most people will recommend the D1SC upgrade (if you chose Procharger that is) due to the price. For $300, the D1SC is much better and much more cost efficient than the P1SC. Also there is Vortech, Paxton, and even the LSA/ZL1 blower conversion. Those are the cheaper options. Magnuson, Whipple, KB might cost a bit more. But lots of people who bought those are extremely happy with their choice.

Of course suspension, tires, and clutch upgrades will be necessary to handle all that power. You should even look into upgrading the brakes. One thing I do suggest tho is to not get hung up on numbers. People often have a number in their head on the kind of power they want. 600 might sound like a lot, but if you were to get to about 550 or 575, you'd be making about the same kind of power as the Z06, 13-14 GT500, and Hellcat give or take...to the wheels. Even if you got to 525, that is about 150 more hp to the wheels than a stock SS. And it is nothing to dismiss. That'll get you into the mid to low 11s. And you could always upgrade at a later point for more performance. I'm planning a little frced induction myself next year. And if I can get to about 550 on low boost then that is perfectly fine with me, lol!!
 

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I have the 2013 2SS RS auto with the LS3 and I am trying to keep it a daily driver but I want it at mid to high 600's on RWHP and someone had said you can do this without a supercharger which I would love to do if anyone can guide me in the right direction thank you.
We have done countless cars in the 550-700 rwhp range with o.e. shortblocks and consider them to be reliable packages. This power # is the limit of comfort though with the o.e. short.
Looking over this thread it seems you have a solid budget and realistic goals in mind.
The easiest thing to do is install a Whipple and a set of full tubes this would get you to your goal at or under budget depending on what other things you have in mind.
I always recommend attacking the main floor before adding on top. The bottom end of these are solid so the foundation is stout out of the box(as long as it has been well maintained of course)
Cai, cnc heads, camshaft(don't get fired up chapel!lol) front to back exhaust netting 420-460 rwhp depending on camshaft choice.
Then add the supercharger of choice to complete the package this would put you over the top of your goals power wise.

https://youtu.be/F1JovZG40lw
 
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