[Bucky6702]

Then my runs were way off...my fastest quarter was a 13.07 @108.96 and your stock numbers are way better than my modded. Definitely need to find another dyno and run it again in the right gear...:angry:

You can't compare Dyno numbers with a Manual car. You have an automatic, therefore, you will lose more power through your drive train. Don't be fooled by the numbers. Be smart and educate yourself.

Quick rule of thumb: Manuals lose about 15% to the rear wheels on a chassis dyno. Automatics lose about 25-30% to the rear wheels on a chassis dyno.

It also doesn't help your case that the manuals are rated at 426HP and the Auto's are 400HP even.

As far as the 1/4 mile times, an Auto will "Almost" Always outrun a manual. Especially if someone with limited or no experience racing it. More than likely, that's why your time is quicker. Not to mention, you're going to get more wheel spin with a manual, unless the driver knows precisely how to slip the clutch and not over-rev the engine on the start.

So, before you start thinking the dyno machine and/or business has no idea what they are doing, make sure you know what you're talking about. And like Powerfreak suggested, you will always use the gear that is closest 1:1 ratio, which would be your 4th gear.

Hope I cleared the muddy water for you.... :thumbsup:

 

[Bucky6702]

Also, one thing to keep in mind is outside ambient temperature and humidity. All of those things effect the end number that the dyno will see.

 

[jhiiidoc]

You can't compare Dyno numbers with a Manual car. You have an automatic, therefore, you will lose more power through your drive train. Don't be fooled by the numbers. Be smart and educate yourself.

Quick rule of thumb: Manuals lose about 15% to the rear wheels on a chassis dyno. Automatics lose about 25-30% to the rear wheels on a chassis dyno.

It also doesn't help your case that the manuals are rated at 426HP and the Auto's are 400HP even.

As far as the 1/4 mile times, an Auto will "Almost" Always outrun a manual. Especially if someone with limited or no experience racing it. More than likely, that's why your time is quicker. Not to mention, you're going to get more wheel spin with a manual, unless the driver knows precisely how to slip the clutch and not over-rev the engine on the start.

So, before you start thinking the dyno machine and/or business has no idea what they are doing, make sure you know what you're talking about. And like Powerfreak suggested, you will always use the gear that is closest 1:1 ratio, which would be your 4th gear.

Hope I cleared the muddy water for you.... :thumbsup:

I hear you, but with my mods, there should not be a 40hp deficit from his stock numbers to my modded numbers, AT to MT or not.

Regardless, the runs I did were in the wrong gear...that is where the bulk of my missing hp is...Not all autos are created equal, and losses from one type of auto to another vs. a manual vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. My statement about the comparison of ET's holds consistent when looking at stock numbers generated by cars throughout the forum. I suck at the launch, and my reaction and 60ft times show it. I would venture to say the other poster was better at this than I am. His trap speed indicates he's making more power...how much is my question.

The tech had me run it in the wrong gear...that is a simple fact. Several ZL1's went through at 480 rwhp + or - 5 hp, and using your "rule of thumb" they were losing closer to 20%, but, as I said, now I know I was in the wrong gear. Possibly they were too. (Other forum members with ZL1s are charting numbers around 518 -525 rwhp which is consistent with what Lingenfelter dynoed on the ZL1).

Once I get it back on a dyno in the correct gear, I'll post new numbers. I'm not expecting anything groundbreaking, but I would suspect I am in the 380rwhp arena...give or take a few horses...and I have not done any "corrected" numbers for humidity and temp...which I know effect the run. (95 degrees, 26% humidity).

Or maybe my car just sucks....:lol:

 

[Bucky6702]

I doubt your car sucks.... There's just a LOT of factors, which you mentioned, that can and will dictate your final numbers.

You're exactly right, not every transmission is created equal. The ZL1's automatic will lose less through the drive train than a normal automatic. Why? Because the way it's built and prepped. The same can be said for a manual, pending the style of clutch.

As for your trap speeds, don't let the MPH numbers fool you. Again, if the manual comes off the line spinning, his or her MPH numbers will be greatly higher than yours. That has nothing to do with HP, but the fact that the manual wasn't able to hook up. A car that launches hard, hooks up, and has a low 60FT time, will usually have a low MPH compared to a car that spins.

But you are correct, regardless, you should have ran it in 4th Gear. Good luch with future runs and keep us posted.

 

[jhiiidoc]

The thing that sucks most is knowing my wife's 2013 Mustang GT is putting more power to the ground stock than my car is modded...and it weighs less. :angry:

 

[POWERFREAK]

The thing that sucks most is knowing my wife's 2013 Mustang GT is putting more power to the ground stock than my car is modded...and it weighs less. :angry:

uhhh, yeah, but it's a mustang :lol::lol::lol:

I doubt the #'s are that different. All dyno's are different...don't worry so much about #'s.

 

[SERBS_SS]

i got 426 rwhp with CAI, headers, xpipe, exhaust and tune..