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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS and I am installing the E-Force (love Edelbrock stuff) and running the canned tune for a few weeks. Currently I have on BBK shorty headers, Vararam Intake (which I now have to sell), and the V Max Throttle Body.

I know I have to remove the headers and go back to stock, the canned tune will not support those. My main question though is I still should be fine running the V-Max Throttle Body with the canned tune right?

In a few weeks I am upgrading to a ZL1 fuel pump and throwing the headers back on and the retuning the car to get the max out of the E-Force

So the V-Max should be ok to run with the canned tune for a while. And it is not really a NECESSITY to upgrade the fuel pump, just a preference correct?
 

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If you are re-tuning in a few weeks, just stay out of the boost until then. The shorty's are ok as long as you have the cats in place to limit boost levels/creep. I would be more concerned about the TB as the canned tune was built for the stock one and your flow rates and MAF frequency will be off...

When you do the ZL1 pump you will need a different FPCM otherwise the new pump isn't controlled properly and you don't get the most out of it. When I did mine I used the ADM FPCM and was really the only one at the time....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok, awesome and thanks for the advice! Now, just to he clear (sorry I'm still a rookie lol) I can install the E Force and leave the BBK Shorties on and also use the V Max but as long as I stay out if boost. Boost, is that at a certain RPM range? How so I stay out?

Now I was planning on buying the ZL1 fuel pump from phastek performance with module for like $290. I believe that will be the correct one right? That's cheap and maybe I can tune it sooner than later then, I was thinking the pump was about 700-800.

Is this correct here?
"ZL1 Camaro" Fuel Pump Kit by GM #19258436/#19260557 - fits all 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 & 2014 Camaro SS models
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Or crap, is that just the module without the pump??
 

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With a blower, boost is ALWAYS on.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok so referring to the other post above how would I be able to drive the car and not go into boost?
 

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Not gonna happen. The SC is running all the time. Low RPMs, low boost. High RPMs high boost.

Drive easy and keep your foot out of it until you can get it properly tuned for your build.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok got ya... ****, this turned out to be a little more than I bargained for. I wasn't expecting all at one time lol. I think I'm going to just wait now on the e force instal until I can have the upgrades fuel pump in hand and also have the money for the tune right away.

Is replacing the fuel pump a pain in the ass or pretty easy?
 

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If you add a supplemental pump inline, it's dead easy. Changing out the pump in the tank? Dunno.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well I'm not sure which one I would need. It sounds like my tuner wants me to upgrade the whole pump to help with the flow and so he can tune it for more hp
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm not sure which one my tuner was referring too. It sounded like a whole new unit that can produce way more hp, like a twin unit but that's $900. Phastek has the ZL1 pump kit that it believe should be good.

Also, is there a carb or smog legal cam that can be used with the e force?

While installing and before tune if I want more power should I just change the pully size and injectors? If so to what size
 

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Or crap, is that just the module without the pump??
That is just the fuel pump itself, not the controller (FPCM)....

The amount of boost is determined by how hard and fast you hit the gas. I can drive mine without hitting 1psi and still get around without being a hazard. You have to remember the engine has a high compression ratio and can motor around just fine without boost. Not sure if your Edelbrock is the same as my Maggie, but mine has a bypass valve on it so when you are driving easy and/or cruising there is only 1/3 of 1HP drag and NO boost....

Most "Stage 1" cams are usually smog legal as they are pretty mild. You could always do the LSA cam (worth about 25-30hp) that is in the Cad CTSV/ZL1 to be safe, though I would think you could do the LS9 (45-60hp) and still be safe. Remember there are additional parts required when doing a cam swap, like springs/retainers, possibly a better timing chain & tensioner etc etc

You def need to talk to the cam maker to be sure if going aftermarket. I have a mild stage 1 blower cam from Comp Cams. Couldn't get the specs from the shop that ordered it for some reason....

You can only hear it when it is cold. When warm, you would never know there is a cam in it and I have had mine "sniffed" already to be sure.... :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok, awesome and thanks for the advice! Now, just to he clear (sorry I'm still a rookie lol) I can install the E Force and leave the BBK Shorties on and also use the V Max but as long as I stay out if boost. Boost, is that at a certain RPM range? How so I stay out?

Now I was planning on buying the ZL1 fuel pump from phastek performance with module for like $290. I believe that will be the correct one right? That's cheap and maybe I can tune it sooner than later then, I was thinking the pump was about 700-800.

Is this correct here?
"ZL1 Camaro" Fuel Pump Kit by GM #19258436/#19260557 - fits all 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 & 2014 Camaro SS models
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Ok, awesome and thanks for the advice! Now, just to he clear (sorry I'm still a rookie lol) I can install the E Force and leave the BBK Shorties on and also use the V Max but as long as I stay out if boost. Boost, is that at a certain RPM range? How so I stay out? Don't put your foot into it, drive very easy

Now I was planning on buying the ZL1 fuel pump from phastek performance with module for like $290. I believe that will be the correct one right? That's cheap and maybe I can tune it sooner than later then, I was thinking the pump was about 700-800. You keep saying ZL1 pump "with module" but I don't see a fuel pump control module (FPCM) listed at the link you put in your post, ONLY the pump itself
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See remarks in bold above. The FPCM I am referring to is an electronic control module INSIDE the car, behind the right interior panel.... AFAIK, ADM is the only one selling these programmed properly for the ZL1 pump.
 

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I have an e-force in my 15 1LE, its a pre-release unit as my tuner is friends with the edelbrock guys and they shipped him the kit pre production. I'm running American Racing 1 7/8 long tubes, high flow cats, and xpipe with stock mufflers, The car is running a custom tune, i'm putting down 552 to the wheels, and with a pulley change, and cai going on next week he tells me i'll hit right around 600. The point is the canned tune is garbage, and completely useless. you need to find a competent tuner, and have the car tuned for your components, thats the only way you'll get trouble free top performance. What state are you in? I"m in Florida and can recommend a top tuner. The shop is called Red-Line motorsports, and he's well known in the industry, and one of the best out there with GM LS powertrains.

Let me know

Ed
 

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E-Force Recommendation

Hi, I have an E-Force on my 15 1LE. For starters you will need to have the car custom tuned, the canned tune is garbage, next you'll want a complete American Racing set of 1 7/8" SS long tubes, high flow cats, xpipe, and if you have nnp muffers from the factory leave them, as they flow very well. I'm running 9psi and the only other mod aside from the exhaust is a CAI. In this configuration i'm laying down 581HP to the tires. I've since added a 125 shot of Nitrous which bumps it up to 695HP and 694TQ.

Next to go is the stock tires, i recommend nitto nt555r in 305/35-20. As your car is a regular SS be very careful on launches, as the half shafts are about as flimsy as they come, and will not handle any abuse. I'd switch to the ZL1/1LE pieces. My car already had the zl1 pump so i didnt need to replace it. Here are some photos
 

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