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Need some direction and/or advice (I’ve read and searched all topics to the point where I see at least three different lists of pros/cons for every part ever mentioned). I’m working overseas while my 2010 SS L99 is home in Orlando and started looking into and buying parts to have the car built up for spirited daily, show, and weekend dragstrip driving. So far I have a Vararam Intake as the only installed part but I have an ADM transmission cooler, CircleD 3200 converter, and a catless ARH LT kit all waiting to be installed. I plan on 3.45 gears, an 18” wheel set up, ported throttle body, and a tune at Tampa Tuning. Also on the plan list are JPSS recommended DSE solid subframe bushings, OE 1LE Toe Links, JPSS rear sway bar and arm upgrade, JPSS rear camber bolts, JPSS Caster Locks, and JPSS Billet Radius Arm Bushings. My questions are where should I go from what I already have, and what should I add to my list while keeping the car NA? (I thought about strapping an F18 engine on it but I’m pretty sure they’d notice one or two missing from here).
 

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Ok so I would just install what you currently have and see how it works. Since you are still overseas jut bank your cash and when you get back then check with some tuning shops in your area. Just my 2 cents and thanks for your service.
 

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Ok so I would just install what you currently have and see how it works. Since you are still overseas jut bank your cash and when you get back then check with some tuning shops in your area. Just my 2 cents and thanks for your service.
I'm banking and building it up (not bragging in any way). I'll be home this November for The Turkey rod run and to open her up again at Orlando speedworld.
 

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Thanks for your service! Just a question: why the stall converter if you aren't installing a cam? Is that a future mod?
 

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I also noticed your building the suspension for road racing, yet have the TC for drag racing. There is no way to have the best of both. What are your goals? If you add those suspension parts, it won't hook well for launching, but will allow you good handling for a road race track and the ability to "tune" for the track. Also, that torque converter will not allow engine braking, which is critical to road racing.

It appears (and you state drag strip) that is what you want, so some tips. Tampa Tuning tune definitely no matter what.

Call Kyle at BMR (or a BMR dealer...Phil from TT may be one) and get a rear drag setup as far as suspension parts, when at the track un-hook the front sway bar (better weight transfer) and get the TC re-stalled so your in the sweet spot of the power band. At least
3800 or more. You won't notice it as yours is a lock-up until you "put your foot into it" and then you are right where you want to be. I would call FTI as they are right in your backyard to do the re-stall.

You run at OSW? Bracket race or only test & tune runs. The reason being is track prep on T&T nights is minimal. Brackets you will have a better prepped track, and also look at some DR's for the rear. The more sidewall height the better to absorb and then release that launch energy. You may want to put V6 rear brakes on to clear a smaller diameter wheel to allow for this.

Is your goal quicker ET's? Consistency so you can make some $? or other.

:thumbsup:
 
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