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I just purchased an out of state Victory Red 2013 ZL1 and brought it to Texas. I tried getting the State Inspection done but it has failed 3 time now. The Inspection Stations readout say O2 sensor not ready. This ZL1 has 35 miles on it when I bought it last month. Without the State Inspection it is very hard to get the plates.

Ran the 1st test at 90 miles, then at 225 and then again at 395 and all 3 failed. I The local dealership said I need more cycles, on and off. I have done both stop and go along with freeway driving.

Has anyone one seen this or heard of this before and what can be done? Maybe the car is still is in the breakout period is really 1500 miles?
 

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By "cycles" they mean temperature. It needs to come to full operating temperature (for exactly how long is unclear) then cool off to cold start up conditions and repeat.... really is a pita from what I hear from those that have had this prob...
 

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Along with hotrod and hypur let me add that if by "Not Ready" they mean "Not in Readiness Mode", then I'm thinking you would need 500 miles of driving with no clearing any codes and no flashing the ECU. After 500 miles it will go into "Readiness Mode". So try 500 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Finally put 700 miles on her and she passed. Thanks for the help. All it took was Starting, stopping and going fast and faster....
 

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Glad she passed!! Just remember, 500 miles without flashing, erasing DTCs, and without CELs is the standard for ECU readiness in OBD-II cars.
 

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Sorry...I'm a little late to this party since I don't come into the V8 section much. I realize that your problem has been solved but I wanted to leave some info here for others that might need to get their monitors readied asap to pass an inspection. I live in Texas too and I have some experience in this area...the process can be done in a lot less than the 700 miles you had to drive. A complete driving cycle done step by step will perform diagnostics on all monitored systems and can usually be completed in less than fifteen minutes.

Performing a GM OBD-II Driving cycle:

Cold Start In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 122 degrees F (50 C) and within 11 degrees F (6 C) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
Idle The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.
Accelerate Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 55mph (88km/hr) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
Hold Steady Speed Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
Decelerate Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 20 mph (32km/hr). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
Accelerate Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 55-60mph (88-96 km/hr). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
Hold Steady Speed Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
Decelerate This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

I did find the decelerate steps to be the most difficult to perform under normal driving conditions so I waited to do all this at night on the highway...just put my flashers on and let it coast down under 20 mph each time.
 
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