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Discussion Starter #1
for $500 :lol:

1999 Oldsmobile Bravada. 120k miles, clean interior, decent exterior. The catch is that it's broken. Poor thing developed a bottom end knock during the last 7 miles or so...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yztz9cgK-oI

I think it ate a rod bearing. So now it's time to pull the old motor, tear it down, and see what failed. If the damage is limited to the bottom end, I'll do an econo-rebuild. If the damage is more severe, I'll probably do an L31 swap (Vortec 5700).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
see if you can get to the problem through the oilpan
I was going to, but that's also a pain. The consensus seems to be that it's probably a rod bearing and that I'll probably need to have the crank machined (which means that the motor needs to be separated from the tranny). There's a diff under the oil pan which makes access a royal pain anyway.
 

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Vortec it and call it dinner. Depending on how long the issue's lasted (out in the open or no) it could end up being more cost effective.

Not to mention a 5.7L Bravada would be sweet. Yeah, I said it. <_<
 

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Discussion Starter #7
We'll see. Honestly, the plan is fix this, sell it, and buy a track car... I'm worried about trying to sell a 5700. Or I could end up falling in love with the thing and I won't have any money for my track car :p
 

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We'll see. Honestly, the plan is fix this, sell it, and buy a track car... I'm worried about trying to sell a 5700. Or I could end up falling in love with the thing and I won't have any money for my track car :p
..that was kinda the point. Plunking a 350 into it and having a WHOOHOO truck/suv thing.

:lol:
 

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Very nice looking about the same miles as my blazer.... I wa looking at the bravadas when i was looking for my first car
 

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Discussion Starter #12
..that was kinda the point. Plunking a 350 into it and having a WHOOHOO truck/suv thing.

:lol:
lets put it this way - it fell into my lap. It was my parent's SUV & they didn't want to finance the repair. I bought it because I thought it was too nice of a truck not to repair - plus I'll be able to turn a nice profit and pay for the additional tools I need to complete the repair if I sell it when I'm done. I'm really conflicted as to what I want to do because it is a very nice driving SUV but I'd really like a dedicated track car. The 540i isn't as fun to drive as the older 3ers & it's expensive to repair stuff breaks :eek:

How about an LS1?? LOL..
out of my budget and it's a more complicated swap. The 5.7 vortec is more or less a direct swap - it even uses the same ECU (reprogrammed)! The wiring harness requires some slight modification, but that's it. The 4.3 was basically a SBC with two cylinders missing; the same accessories, sensors, tranny, everything still bolts up with the 5.7. The downside is that the engine compartment is already challenged for space and it will be a tight fit (requires an electric fan and some modification of the existing fan shroud).

whenn I got my saturn the previous owner threw a rod bearing. my dad fixed it through the oil pan no problem
this is when you get into what a "proper" repair consists of and luck. Generally, if you spin a rod bearing, the crank needs to be turned or you'll ruin the new rod bearings. I've also been told that it is very possible that the rod itself will be elongated so it needs to be inspected and probably replaced. Could I get away with just new rod bearings? Maybe. But since it takes a lot of effort to either pull the motor OR access the oil pan, I might as well do it right.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Very nice looking about the same miles as my blazer.... I wa looking at the bravadas when i was looking for my first car
they're nice vehicles when they're running ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just a quick update, it now looks like this after maybe 15 minutes of work :p


I'm only working on it during the weekends when it is nice out. Northern Maryland is still a bit cold for my liking and very wet.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Nice.
Aren't those AWD? I'd think there would be a bit of extra work mating that to a 5.7l :D
Yes, they're "AWD." I say AWD in quotes because it's really RWD with automatic 4WD engagement. The transmission is the same as in the RWD models, so it should be fine. It's the 4L60e which was also found behind the 350, same bolt pattern and everything. The transfer case bolts to the rear of the tranny, so it shouldn't be a problem. The only cause for concern is really the front diff, but I believe the V8 oil pan clears it.
 

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Yes, they're "AWD." I say AWD in quotes because it's really RWD with automatic 4WD engagement. The transmission is the same as in the RWD models, so it should be fine. It's the 4L60e which was also found behind the 350, same bolt pattern and everything. The transfer case bolts to the rear of the tranny, so it shouldn't be a problem. The only cause for concern is really the front diff, but I believe the V8 oil pan clears it.
Gotcha. I thought there were full time AWD.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well keep in mind that my dad owns a shop. It wasn't some half assed fix. he knows what he's doing
I haven't rebuilt a motor before, so I only know what I've been told. The consensus seems to be that the rods & crank should be inspected before replacing the bearings IF there is a knock present. And believe me, I'd try to replace just the rod bearings first if I had easy access to the oil pan. It's just just a pain in the ass to get to the oil pan in the first place that I'd rather pull the motor and do it 100% right. We've talked to several professional mechanics and they have ALL said to pull the motor because the crank will most likely need to be machined. We'll see about the rods - I'm trying to avoid pulling the heads.
 
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