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Discussion Starter #1
Instead of an oil catch can, why not just unhook the hose and run it down beneath the car. Eliminates the expense and hassle of dealing with the spent oil and remembering to drain the can. And you eliminate the used oil going back into the intake. If this doesn't work tell me. Just throwing some ideas out.
 

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Well the first thing that comes to mind is you will get it all over the underside of your car. When it hits the exhaust there will be smoke and a burning smell etc. Once enough of it has soaked onto the bushings, they will start to deteriorate etc

Environmentally not a good thing and depending on how much blow-by a car has, it could be dangerous for others, like motorcycles as it drips onto the road surface eventually.... :(
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well the first thing that comes to mind is you will get it all over the underside of your car. When it hits the exhaust there will be smoke and a burning smell etc. Once enough of it has soaked onto the bushings, they will start to deteriorate etc

Environmentally not a good thing and depending on how much blow-by a car has, it could be dangerous for others, like motorcycles as it drips onto the road surface eventually.... :(
Very true!! I thought about that when i wrote this but forgot to add it to the original thread. I'm just thinking there has to be a better option rather than catching the oil and dealing with it or letting it back into the engine.
 

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I'm just thinking there has to be a better option rather than catching the oil and dealing with it or letting it back into the engine.
With the right can and drain setup (easy open valve and a long drain hose) it really is no bother. You do your oil change and drain the can. Again, the can must be of sufficient size to accommodate this type of interval OR you have to remember to do it midway. But if you are filling up a full sized catch can in a normal service interval you have something seriously wrong in the engine.... ;)
 

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If you're gonna do it, then you might as well do it the correct way. The suggestion made is environmentally hazardous and irresponsible...as well as a severe danger to other vehicles and pedestrians (as hypur mentioned). Just take the time to do it correct. It doesn't have to be a project. Purchase a good catch can and eliminate the oil properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
not saying that i am just going to dump the oil, i was simply posing the questions to see what anyone elses thoughts were on this topic. just a conversation starter
 

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Here is what you would be accomplishing. It would be similar to the old draft tube design of the 20's through the 50's where the venturi effect would create suction when at speed. But they used on tube, and a media breather on the valve cover to allow in the fresh air side for evacuation. What they did know at that time (todays oil analysis shows the contaminates...back then they only had theory) was that due to reversion, those tubes also pulled in dirt/dust/water/sand directly into the crankcase and resulted in motors lasting only 30-50k miles at best.

If you do one hose from each valve cover, at speed one will have more suction from the venturi effect and overpower the other causing it to act like a vacuum cleaner sucing the road dirt and debris directly into your crankcase. (see this more and more done by some tuners w/out a clue to the functions of the PCV system) Your motor won't last long.

Then, you are defeating the crankcase evacuation that is so critical to engine life. You are allowing pressure to release, but very little evacuation takes place so the majority of the damaging compounds present in the blow-by gasses are left in the crankcase and every cool down condense and accumulate into a mix of damaging compounds.

Water

Unburnt fuel

Abrasive carbon particles (the ones too small to be trapped by the oil filter)

Sulfuric acid (attacks the metal parts and bearing and journal surfaces).

The PCV system provides several very critical functions to give todays engines life for several hundred thousand miles, and pressure relief is only one of them. If you are not constantly evacuating (not venting, that does not remove the damaging compounds) these while they are still in a suspended or gaseous state, then they sty in the crankcase.

Look at this rocker arm end from an engine with just breathers on and the PCV system deleted. In just a few months rust pitting is already attacking the top of the rollers needle bearing bucket weakening it:


Imagine after a few years like that.

Same with a can with a breather on it like some turbo vendors do, or one of the V6 superchargers that just fill with water, it defeats all evacuation.

For an engine to live properly and prevent the damage and premature wear these combustion by-products cause, it is critical to always be evacuating the crankcase. The oil is an unintended by-product of the excellent designed OEM system. Going back to the ways of the stone age (well nearly) is not the answer, neither is using a can that allows just as much oil to pull through as it catches the solution. There is a need for a properly functioning catchcan on every gasoline car and light truck made today, and only a small handfull are worth installing.
 

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That oil ingested in the intake air charge does nothing but harm, but as the owner your free to do as you choose. 99% of owners today have no clue it is even an issue as "out of sight, out of mind" is true. This is only for those that want the best for their baby and intend to keep it long term like Chapel, etc.

The right can choice is also critical as most are far to small (for appearance, not funcction as all will catch oil...it is what is pulled through a can that makes the difference, and only a few do a good job at stopping all, or nearly all the oil).

Also, most cans have the outlet on the side, so combine that with the small size and most don't have the internal volume to allow the flow to slow enough to allow all droplets to fall out of suspension, and fill to rapidly. In the cold weather months a can will fill much faster due to the large amount of water vapor being evacuated from the engine, so it will look like chocolate milk when draining. This is normal (and another reason no manufacturer will offer them from the factory as it takes an owner that does regular maintenance themselves as most buy a vehicle and aside from putting gas in, never open the hood or do anything else other than wash it and unless a DIC message prompts them to, never think about what is going on under the hood).

Here is a picture to show how much too small so many are to function properly. If the volume is to small, the speed of the flow through, or the velocity stays to great and the Bernoulli effect will pull droplets right out from the low pressure created with the flow. Same as taking a drinking straw and sucking up spilled soda from a table top. Try it with a 3/4" hose and it is impossible, a small diameter straw and it is easy with no effort.



As for draining, an easy 1/4 turn high quality ball valve makes it no issue. Just open, drain, and close:


Most cans have a provision for easy drain.
 
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