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Discussion Starter #21
Yes, that is what it is, and yes you can use red or blue. Or it is a .001 interference fit so even with no sealer it seats nice and tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Unfortunately GM switched from plastic valve/cam covers to aluminum for 2014 and although the barb is the same size, it is not available separate. You have to purchase the entire valve cover to get the new one. The drill mod is pretty easy though. If anyone needs further clarification, just ask and I an be more detailed.

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The LLT & LFX have oil consumption and crankcase evacuation issues that I have covered in other threads, but here is an example of how critical it is to do the drill mod the PCV barb located in the rear of the passenger side cam/valve cover. The holes are far to small from the factory until late 2013-2014 where GM changed the size to a proper CFM of flow and prevents the issues going forward. (only took the past 3-4 years to get it this far as many know how I have pushed this). Here is a few year old one that shows what happens, and if the crankcase cannot evacuate properly all the damaging combustion byproducts will accumulate in the crankcase greatly shortening engine life.

The proper drill size is 5/64" and both the top single, and bottom 2 holes need this drilled:




If you have one of the systems that dletes the PCV systems function and ties the clean and dirty sides together, you will see excess condesation and possible damage to catalytic converters or piston/rod damage from the ingestion of "gulps" of water as it fills the can and "burps" it into the intake air pipe.

Ask for more info on anything related to proper PCV/Crankcase evacuation on both V8's and V6's.

:thumbsup:
Drill the top hole to 7/64's, and the two bottom ones 5/64's.

Here is what the 2014's look like in comparison:


Only took them 4 years to implement the change after posting this mod and sharing the cause and solution.
all three holes the same ?? or top hole 7/64 or 5/64's?
 

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just did this, it was really easy,, a couple notes..

1. to unhook the hose - there is a small release lever on the hose connector, push it & hose comes right off.

2. to get the plug out of the valve cover, it's pretty tight but there is just enough room to get a standard sized vise grip on it from above and pull it out, it takes about 20 pounds of force but it will come out.

note, my 2012 has 22,000 miles with a catch can on since 6,000, the plug was very clean.
 

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Wow...I had not idea that BMW used a media-blaster for this problem. The GM upper eng cleaner and a hard drive is what GM recommends...Sometimes the intake needs to come off and you have to let the cleaner soak to get the heavier stuff.



geonny....you got me. LOL. I'm usually pretty good with my to/two/too's and my there/their/they're's
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Wow...I had not idea that BMW used a media-blaster for this problem. The GM upper eng cleaner and a hard drive is what GM recommends...Sometimes the intake needs to come off and you have to let the cleaner soak to get the heavier stuff.



geonny....you got me. LOL. I'm usually pretty good with my to/two/too's and my there/their/they're's

I used to be a seafoam and BG user....but after examining what occurs during these treatments, and seeing the high rate of bearing failures after performing the service if the oil is not immediately changed, and further, inspecting the results after a solvent based cleaning and how much is still left on the valves....won't use it any more.

Here is what the solvent does, and all the brands have similar ingredients:

The solvent soaks into the hard deposits, and causes them to expand and break loose. Most is then expelled out the exhaust vales, but some of the smaller particles (very hard if baked on for any amount of time) are forced down between the piston and cylinder wall...and some minor scouring always occurs. Over time, this turns into more substantial scouring and the piston/ring/wall seal is compromised to some extent. And then you have the solvent that also washes past the rings and enters the crankcase....making an oil change a must.

You can go to BG's website and see pictures of using it on a regular basis keeping much of the coking at a minimum, but tear down and examine the piston skirts and cylinder walls to see the gradual damage.

Use the brush method or the walnut shell method and nothing gets into the cylinder, and the results are as the engine came new. Install one of the few effective catchcan systems and avoid it altogether (a system that catches all the oil/etc.

Anyone in FL just stop in to see LLT and LFX cylinder heads and engines torn down to see all of this in person and I am happy to show examples and will also remove your intake manifold free to show you your own. And now with all 2015's being DI (v8's now), this affects all GM gasoline engines.

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On heavy build ups we soak and then use the BG brake flush machine's suction hose to suck the junk out (at least that was my practice when I was still wrenching).




So I finally go along to doing this mod. I was expecting to find a one-way PCV valve inside... but mine is just a hollow fitting. Is this normal?
On the CTS's the hose runs into the intake so I always assumed they where like any other PCV valve with a spring loaded plate that closes under WOT (boost)... I guess the holes are so small to act as a metering hole to eliminate the need for a valve while still letting the engine control the idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
On heavy build ups we soak and then use the BG brake flush machine's suction hose to suck the junk out (at least that was my practice when I was still wrenching).




So I finally go along to doing this mod. I was expecting to find a one-way PCV valve inside... but mine is just a hollow fitting. Is this normal?
On the CTS's the hose runs into the intake so I always assumed they where like any other PCV valve with a spring loaded plate that closes under WOT (boost)... I guess the holes are so small to act as a metering hole to eliminate the need for a valve while still letting the engine control the idle.
GM went away from the old variable flow PCV valves to fixed orifice design in the early 2000's in an attempt to reduce the oil ingestion issue, but it was too restrictive to begin with and only recently adopted our design for 2014 and up (look at the 2014 LFX design and hole sizes).

The IAT control has been eliminated due to coking issues as well in the early 2000's and all idle air control is accomplished with the DBW throttle body servo motor control commands by the ECU/PCM.

I'm not aware of any auto makers that still use the outdated IAT control valves anymore. Just as EGR valves have (another coking issue prone device) gone the way of the dinosaur as well.

Lot's of ever evolving technology. :thumbsup:
 

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Drill the top hole to 7/64's, and the two bottom ones 5/64's.

Here is what the 2014's look like in comparison:


Only took them 4 years to implement the change after posting this mod and sharing the cause and solution.
Can anyone tell me if the new version of the PCV valve can be pulled out too? I tried to pull on mine during and elite catch can install and now I have a P0151 code. I think I have a vacuum leak from the Barb and I'm not sure if I should try to pull it and then reseat or to try to tap it back in or seal it somehow.
Any advice would be welcome. I replaced the O2 sensor and still have the issue. (Another question is which bank is bank 2 on the V6. The info I've found was driver's side, but then I found conflicting) now my O2 sensor isn't registering any voltage... My birthday weekend this weekend so I'd love to get it back on the road.
 
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