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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys, I'm working on cleaning the the factory crap you see when you open the hood on a modern car. The end goal is to end up with a compartment that looks more like an engine and not a computer or plumbers convention. I've documented the entire process on Camaro5.com. I will be updating on this thread as I have time. In the meantime, here is the link. Project Cleaning the Clutter in Our Engine Bay - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com

Here a few shots as a preview:





































Hope you enjoy,

Nathan
 

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Very nice. I may have to steal a few of your ideas. I have the Vararam as well and was looking at ways to clean up the engine compartment some more.
 

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OP: Nice diss aimed @ GM (sarcasm). Vehicle sales disprove your statement.
 

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WOW! This is a good thread. Really like what you are doing. I'm into the details also. Sales are great for the car but I'm guessing the OP is doing this for show. It's cluttered under the hood. Engine details get lost with the factory design.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Very nice. I may have to steal a few of your ideas. I have the Vararam as well and was looking at ways to clean up the engine compartment some more.
Thanks, Let me know what your planning on doing and I can give you some specific tips.

Thanks for posting ! Very cool. Keep updating here also please
Thanks, It takes a lot of time to post but, I make some time to bring this thread to where I am currently on the project.

I didn't post my location but I'm also in Temecula, :thumbsup:

OP: Nice diss aimed @ GM (sarcasm). Vehicle sales disprove your statement.
Maybe my OP was lost in the translation. No diss was intended at GM.

WOW! This is a good thread. Really like what you are doing. I'm into the details also. Sales are great for the car but I'm guessing the OP is doing this for show. It's cluttered under the hood. Engine details get lost with the factory design.
Thanks, combination of show and go. The initial goal is about 500hp NA.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just got the intake back from Mike and all I can say is WOW! Mike did a killer job and have to send out a big shot out for him. I couldn't be happier.





I also changed all the washer to these machined stainless.



Mike did me a favor and powder coated the washer on the Katech tensioner wrinkle black. Looks killer in the sun. I might end up changing the pulley.



Thanks again Mike for all the help and patient in doing test panel and mailing them back and forth. Service is second to none!

The only sad part is that I thought I be done by the time I got the intake back and now I'm further behind than before,
 

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Discussion Starter #12
VERY Nice, Look forward to seeing it when Ur Completely Done!!!!!!
Thanks, I can't wait to get her done but it keeps getting away from me, LOL.

Parts are starting to come in....... Other than the header studs, got the rest of my ARP bolts today. The rad should be here tomorrow. If I wasn't monkeying with the passenger side tower, I could start reassembly pretty soon

 

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Discussion Starter #13
Heres a few pics of the front drive mocked up with the ARP bolts, new 8 rib pulleys from Innovators West, etc...









I gather some more ideas that will just refine the project.........stay tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Almost done........

Just have about 15 things more to do, LOL










After relocating the factory EVAC solenoid and negative battery cable that mounted to the front of the cylinder head, the 4 factory bolt holes on the were no longer needed, so they were welded in and the face re-milled.









Stay tuned :thumbsup:
 

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Nathan I have been reading your log on the "other" site for a few days now. You have some fantastic skills and ideas that are "out of the box". I really appreciate individuals that do the work themselves and do a darn good job of it. They are few and far in between. Your work is meticulous and spot on. Thanks for sharing. I'll be buffing my engine aluminum now. Thank you very much!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Nathan I have been reading your log on the "other" site for a few days now. You have some fantastic skills and ideas that are "out of the box". I really appreciate individuals that do the work themselves and do a darn good job of it. They are few and far in between. Your work is meticulous and spot on. Thanks for sharing. I'll be buffing my engine aluminum now. Thank you very much!!!!
Thanks Bear! Haven't posted in a while but here are a few random pics. Goal is to drop 500 lbs off the car and increase power by 50%. So far we are on target. For the guys that might be thinking's its all show, I just like attention to detail but the primary goal is a BADA$$ track car.

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The engine bay does look impressive. But , I would never want to rely on "hand crimped" wires, injectors, spark plug wires or any other ones that this guy hand crimped. The factory "machined crimped" are far more reliable. You can buy them already assembled and properly crimped by a machine. Also the factory covering, (conduit) is usually nylon 6/6 and is heat resistant and better than just tape. Rerouting these wires could later prove to be a bad idea. These wires and conduit sleeves are placed in areas where they won't be pinched, cut or chaffed. GM does wiring quality audits, (RQAs) of the engine bay to make sure there are no warranty issues. Moving, rerouting and removing coverings can lead to warranty issues that won't be covered by GM. Hand crimped wires could possibly vibrate loose and could lead to intermittent electrical problems. Putting in non GM wiring will also void any warranty your vehicle has left too.

That being said, the engine bay does look nice. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The engine bay does look impressive. But , I would never want to rely on "hand crimped" wires, injectors, spark plug wires or any other ones that this guy hand crimped. The factory "machined crimped" are far more reliable. You can buy them already assembled and properly crimped by a machine. Also the factory covering, (conduit) is usually nylon 6/6 and is heat resistant and better than just tape. Rerouting these wires could later prove to be a bad idea. These wires and conduit sleeves are placed in areas where they won't be pinched, cut or chaffed. GM does wiring quality audits, (RQAs) of the engine bay to make sure there are no warranty issues. Moving, rerouting and removing coverings can lead to warranty issues that won't be covered by GM. Hand crimped wires could possibly vibrate loose and could lead to intermittent electrical problems. Putting in non GM wiring will also void any warranty your vehicle has left too.

That being said, the engine bay does look nice. :)
Thanks for the compliment. If you look at all my pictures, there's nothing left on my car from Gm other than the shell to be worried about warranty, LOL. Also, I'm not sure what wires you are referring to as being hand crimp, as I have never done any :dunno:

This will give you an idea of how far gone this project is.

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Even the glass is being replaced for 50% lighter pieces.

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woww...respect...!
i wish, that i had the money...the space...and the time...!
 
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