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Hey guys

I was just wondering if any of you guys have experienced this. Basically my steering wheel vibrates a little when I start to drive my car in the morning to go to work. If I go through town roads at lower speeds I have no issues, but when I decide to use the highway, as soon as I take the ramp and get on it I always notice this vibration right after I past the 55 mph until almost 75 . The weird this is that after a little while of driving(maybe a mile it stops vibrating and does not do it anymore. Is this something I should be worried about or concerned. I know our wider tires make the car feel more of the road but would this be why? I never owned a car with this type of tires and that's the only difference I see from all of my previous cars, needless to say I never had this issue in the past either.

Thanks in advance guys
 

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Besides balancing, there's the possibility that the tire is out of round. When the tire is cold, such a condition would be more noticeable than after the tire heats up from flexing.

In any case, taking the car to a good tire shop should tell you if there is a balancing problem, out of round problem (which may be solved), or another problem such as a damaged tire.

Good luck.

Strick: What means "prolly"?
 

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That's normal,,,

"TIRE RACK"
Do you ever feel a ride disturbance or shimmy during the first few miles of driving after your vehicle has been parked for a few days, weeks or months? Then, after you drive a couple of miles, the ride smoothes out and feels OK. This condition is often called flatspotting because it is used to describe the tire flatspots that can occur when a vehicle is parked.

Many heavy duty, high performance, high speed rated and racing tires have a memory because they continue to remember the position in which they were last parked after they begin to be driven on again. Unfortunately, their memory can become a problem when the tires experience big swings in ambient temperature, have been parked overnight in cold temperatures, or parked for an extended period of time...because it's a lack of use that can cause tires to flatspot.

As they roll, tires go from a relaxed state to a loaded state about 800 times every mile. This constant deflection generates heat that makes the tires more flexible. But once they are parked, the spot in contact with the ground (the tire's footprint) flattens as it is pressed against the road's flat surface as the tires cool. This is what generates flatspots. And until the tires "warm up" again, the flatspot on each tire can cause a ride disturbance that will be felt for the first few miles the next time the vehicle is driven.

Flatspotting can be temporary (the tire will round out as driving warms it up) or in the most severe cases, permanent (in which the tire's memory effectively destroys its ride quality). A flatspot's severity is often a function of the tire size, internal structure, load, ambient temperature and time.

Low aspect ratio tires have less sidewall flex due to their short sidewalls and much of their load carrying capacity is absorbed by the deflection of their wide footprints.

The tread compounds and firm, nylon reinforced internal constructions used on high performance and high speed rated tires are more susceptible to flatspotting.

Heavy loads and too little air pressure in the tires (underinflation) will allow them to deflect more where they come into contact with the ground. This allows even more deflection, increasing the severity of the flatspotting.

Cold ambient temperatures make rubber compounds stiffer, increasing their tendency to flatspot.

The longer tires remain stationary, the better they remember the position in which they were last parked. Tires on vehicles stored on the ground for many months can be permanently flatspotted.

Minimizing Flatspotting

While there is no way to completely avoid tire flatspotting, knowing what to expect under different conditions will help minimize its inconvenience.

NOTE: It is important to check and reset tire inflation pressures to those recommended by the vehicle manufacturer on the vehicle placard or owners manual when taking a vehicle out of storage.

Tire flatspotting would be most noticeable when beginning to drive a vehicle that has been stored incorrectly (with the weight of the vehicle pressing down through the tires to the ground). When storing a vehicle for more than a few weeks, it is best to drive the vehicle until it is thoroughly warmed up and then immediately put it up on "blocks" after arriving at the storage location. Doing this takes the load off of the tires completely. Not doing this on a vehicle that will be parked for a few months runs the risk of permanently flatspotting the tires.

Tire flatspotting may also be noticed when beginning to drive a vehicle that has not been driven for a few days, or during the colder winter months after the vehicle has been parked overnight. However, these types of flatspots will usually disappear during the first few miles of driving.

Usually during the day, the warmer ambient temperatures and more frequent vehicle use will not allow noticeable flatspots to form. However, anytime a vehicle goes in for ride-related services (tire rotation, rebalancing, or to diagnose ride disturbances), the vehicle should be driven for 5 to 10 miles immediately before being raised in the shop to make certain that temporary flatspots are not preventing the source of the ride complaint from being isolated and corrected.

And finally, tire flatspotting will also be noticed at the beginning of each session when attending a driver's school, track day or race. Whenever the car is returned to the paddock, the vehicle should immediately be lifted off of the ground to prevent flatspotting (this will also allow the car to feel more stable at the beginning of the next track session). This practice also allows debris to be cleaned off of the hot tires while they are inspected for any punctures and cuts. If you watch the professional race teams at an event, you'll see that they always remove the race tires immediately after stopping in the pits at the end of a session (if they plan to continue using the tires).
 

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Besides balancing, there's the possibility that the tire is out of round. When the tire is cold, such a condition would be more noticeable than after the tire heats up from flexing.

In any case, taking the car to a good tire shop should tell you if there is a balancing problem, out of round problem (which may be solved), or another problem such as a damaged tire.

Good luck.

Strick: What means "prolly"?
Spok, I believe it is an earth slang term that is used for the correct word "probably". I am not sure where it originated but it is definitely not a real word that we would use. It is "probably" from a specific region in our country where it is popular. Maybe the mountains of West Virginia of North Carolina.
 

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Hey guys

I was just wondering if any of you guys have experienced this. Basically my steering wheel vibrates a little when I start to drive my car in the morning to go to work. If I go through town roads at lower speeds I have no issues, but when I decide to use the highway, as soon as I take the ramp and get on it I always notice this vibration right after I past the 55 mph until almost 75 . The weird this is that after a little while of driving(maybe a mile it stops vibrating and does not do it anymore. Is this something I should be worried about or concerned. I know our wider tires make the car feel more of the road but would this be why? I never owned a car with this type of tires and that's the only difference I see from all of my previous cars, needless to say I never had this issue in the past either.

Thanks in advance guys
Hello ichriscamaro,

Sincere apologies to hear of the steering wheel vibration as I'm sure that is displeasing and a bit concerning for you. Have you spoken to a GM dealership about what you're experiencing? If not, I'd be more than happy to set up an appointment for you to have this inspected. Feel free to send me a PM for additional assistance.

Kindly,

William R.
Chevrolet Customer Care
 

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If the vibration doesn't go away after about ten minutes of driving then you have a wheel unbalanced. A flat spot will disappear after a few hundred revolutions, an unbalanced wheel will effect the steering wheel at around 50 MPH or more and will not go away until it is rebalanced.
 

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If it is under 7500 miles GM would still cover it under warranty. Even if not, I would have the dealer do the balance, because if it is a tire, they have a road force balance machine.. or should.. and this will detect if you have a bad tire and then they can warranty the tire if it is under 24,000 miles. I would "prolly" go to the dealer! ;)
 

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I have the EXACT same issue except my vibration becomes violent at highway speeds 65mph+ ! My steering wheel shakes back and forth and you can see my radar detector move up down with the vibration.

At first they thought it was warped rotors so they turned the rotors. That didn't fix it. Then they balanced it and road forced the tires. They didn't road force that good but they said it was good enough. After 8 more visits in two months I was told to replace the rear tires. I replaced them with new factory rears. Vibration was still there.

I take it in again and they try to balance them again. Two more visits and they say it is the front tires. I have the front tires replaced now and after it is all installed...the vibration is STILL there! That is 10-11 visits and no resolution.

It isn't brakes, and it has nothing to do with tires. So that leaves it either in it being the wheel being warped, the hub, or the suspension. This car is a 2010 Camaro 1LT RS that I bought certified with 27k on the odometer and now has 39k. I love the car, but this problem is an absolute nightmare! I feel it is unsafe to drive, but the dealership can't figure out the problem.

It's good to see I'm not the only one having this problem...at least I know I'm not crazy! lol... :dropbricks:
 

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I would find another dealer that does not have a broken give a ****.
 

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I have the EXACT same issue except my vibration becomes violent at highway speeds 65mph+ ! My steering wheel shakes back and forth and you can see my radar detector move up down with the vibration.

At first they thought it was warped rotors so they turned the rotors. That didn't fix it. Then they balanced it and road forced the tires. They didn't road force that good but they said it was good enough. After 8 more visits in two months I was told to replace the rear tires. I replaced them with new factory rears. Vibration was still there.

I take it in again and they try to balance them again. Two more visits and they say it is the front tires. I have the front tires replaced now and after it is all installed...the vibration is STILL there! That is 10-11 visits and no resolution.

It isn't brakes, and it has nothing to do with tires. So that leaves it either in it being the wheel being warped, the hub, or the suspension. This car is a 2010 Camaro 1LT RS that I bought certified with 27k on the odometer and now has 39k. I love the car, but this problem is an absolute nightmare! I feel it is unsafe to drive, but the dealership can't figure out the problem.

It's good to see I'm not the only one having this problem...at least I know I'm not crazy! lol... :dropbricks:
Have tried to have it aligned?Another thing you might want to check is if there is any loose front end parts like wheel bearings,tie rod ends,ball joints there are two on each side.You can check these yourself,jack up and check one side at a time.To check the wheel bearing once it is jacked up grab the top and bottom of the tire.Try to move the tire back and forth ,if you have movement it's a bad wheel bearing.To check the tie rod ends grab the left and right side off the tire and try to move it back and forth if you can hear or feel play you have a bad tie rod end.To check the ball joints take bar stick it under the tire and pull up on it.I find it is easier to have somebody help to check them.one lifts up and down on the bar well someone looks at the ball joints to see if there is movement.A bent rim is Easley seen when you balance the tires,so if you put knew tires on the front they should have seen that.I know what it like dealing with incompetent mechanics,my daughter took her car to three different places for a coolant leak and no one could find it.I took a look at it and found it as soon as I lifted the hood it was a split hose right in the open ,you could not miss it.
 

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Have tried to have it aligned?Another thing you might want to check is if there is any loose front end parts like wheel bearings,tie rod ends,ball joints there are two on each side.You can check these yourself,jack up and check one side at a time.To check the wheel bearing once it is jacked up grab the top and bottom of the tire.Try to move the tire back and forth ,if you have movement it's a bad wheel bearing.To check the tie rod ends grab the left and right side off the tire and try to move it back and forth if you can hear or feel play you have a bad tie rod end.To check the ball joints take bar stick it under the tire and pull up on it.I find it is easier to have somebody help to check them.one lifts up and down on the bar well someone looks at the ball joints to see if there is movement.A bent rim is Easley seen when you balance the tires,so if you put knew tires on the front they should have seen that.I know what it like dealing with incompetent mechanics,my daughter took her car to three different places for a coolant leak and no one could find it.I took a look at it and found it as soon as I lifted the hood it was a split hose right in the open ,you could not miss it.
Thanks for the heads up bud. I'm going to take it back, have the tire place put it on the lift so I can test those things out.

The vibration gets exponentially worse as speed rises. 70mph+ and you can see my entire seat and the car seats in the back vibrate up and down a good 1" when I was on the highway today.

Does road force show a bent wheel? Because they said the one roadforced at a ridiculously high number. I assumed that was tire, and they did too, but maybe it road forced high because of the bad wheel? I was also told that since the vibration happens more notably at high speed that they can't mimick those speeds on the balance / road force machine to see the problem. Does that sound right?

Edit: I just realized we all have Red Jewel Tintcoat....that's amusing.
 

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Thanks for the heads up bud. I'm going to take it back, have the tire place put it on the lift so I can test those things out.

The vibration gets exponentially worse as speed rises. 70mph+ and you can see my entire seat and the car seats in the back vibrate up and down a good 1" when I was on the highway today.

Does road force show a bent wheel? Because they said the one roadforced at a ridiculously high number. I assumed that was tire, and they did too, but maybe it road forced high because of the bad wheel? I was also told that since the vibration happens more notably at high speed that they can't mimick those speeds on the balance / road force machine to see the problem. Does that sound right?

Edit: I just realized we all have Red Jewel Tintcoat....that's amusing.
My wife's car had a slight vibration at highway speeds and they did the balance/road force said one of the tire was off from the other.They replaced it problem gone.Normally when you get a vibration at highway speed it's a balance issue.When you get the vibrations in the seat is it vibrating the steering wheel also?Rjt is the best color out there lol!!
 

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I have the EXACT same issue except my vibration becomes violent at highway speeds 65mph+ ! My steering wheel shakes back and forth and you can see my radar detector move up down with the vibration.

At first they thought it was warped rotors so they turned the rotors. That didn't fix it. Then they balanced it and road forced the tires. They didn't road force that good but they said it was good enough. After 8 more visits in two months I was told to replace the rear tires. I replaced them with new factory rears. Vibration was still there.

I take it in again and they try to balance them again. Two more visits and they say it is the front tires. I have the front tires replaced now and after it is all installed...the vibration is STILL there! That is 10-11 visits and no resolution.

It isn't brakes, and it has nothing to do with tires. So that leaves it either in it being the wheel being warped, the hub, or the suspension. This car is a 2010 Camaro 1LT RS that I bought certified with 27k on the odometer and now has 39k. I love the car, but this problem is an absolute nightmare! I feel it is unsafe to drive, but the dealership can't figure out the problem.

It's good to see I'm not the only one having this problem...at least I know I'm not crazy! lol... :dropbricks:
Just wondering if you were able to figure out what issue was with your car, I have the exact same problem with my 2010 Camaro SS, I have replaced the tires, rotors, brake pads, and struts along with multiple front suspension parts including both sway bar links and both lower and upper control arms but the driving wheel still shakes a little at high speeds and it gets worst when a push the break to slow down. I have yet to do the alignment but I got the feeling that is not going to be the problem, I'm thinking that maybe the Wheel bearing housing need to be replaced although there in no visible damage. I have also consider if the rim is bent but when I turn the driver wheel with my hand i can hear the rotor touching the brake pads inconsistently while on the other side you can hear the sound of the brake pads touching the rotor consistently. Honestly at this point I'm just guessing, if you or anyone else can help I would really appreciate it...

Thanks in advance
 
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