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I have ordered a 2SS/RS and, in mental preparation, I was wondering whether I should plan to use synthetic or conventional motor oil during the expected life of the high performance engine. I have read MANY MANY articles and have no real answer.

What to the readers think are the pros and cons on this issue? :confused:

Thank you for any input.
 

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I will assume, like all the other performance Gen III/IV engines, it will come with Mobil 1 from the factory. I think the only ones that did not were the 4th gen F-bodys. The Corvette, GTO, etc all came with Mobil.

Either way, I'd go with Mobil 5w30 every 5k miles (if you run it hard) or whenever the DIC if you drive like a pappy.
 

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I have ordered a 2SS/RS and, in mental preparation, I was wondering whether I should plan to use synthetic or conventional motor oil during the expected life of the high performance engine. I have read MANY MANY articles and have no real answer.

What to the readers think are the pros and cons on this issue? :confused:

Thank you for any input.
Synthetic has down!! In fact that its probably going to be stamped on the oil cap. I have a 99' Z28 and I use synthetic, I'm pretty sure that the requirement for all LS engines are required to use it. And Royal Purple has been prove to actually increase rear wheel horse power if you want the best synthetic. You might not want to use it for the first couple of oil changes so that the engine can break-in properly. But if your planning on keep the car then definitely use synthetic if your just going to lease and give it back when your done, then maybe use conventional but that's it. The only time I ever used conventional is when I had carburetor car
 

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so what's the advantage of "breaking in" the engine on conventional oil? Why, if synthetic is so much better (which I don't disagree) not just run synthetic all the time? I managed a transportation/temporary service for a while and we finally began running synthetic and put in a second filter too; started changing oil (fully synthetic) every 15k miles....
 

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Synthetic oil is way too slippery of a lubricant and does not allow the bearings, valves, pistons and rings, (well any metal-to-metal contact points) to make there unique microscopic grooves into each other and allow the moving parts to track straight and run smooth.

Well thats really just my theory but I do know for a fact that when you build a motor and break it in that you must not use synthetic oil or it will not break-in properly. Things I've heard old engine builders say and things I've read from two of the brand new engines I installed from GM Parts
 

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Definitely run regular oil until everything seats correctly and broken in. Then switch over.
kinda hard to do, being that it'll probably come with synth from the factory.
 

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we've always run Mobil 1 full synthetic in all of our cars and we will do that with this one. :thumbsup:

i have heard the "run conventional oil for break-in" isn't necessary... and yes, some cars come from the factory with synthetic oil (you could get that in the Firehawks and SS's)... i haven't heard for sure if the new Camaro will or not... but as soon as we change the oil at 500 miles, it will be getting Mobil 1 no matter what. :D
 

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I will assume, like all the other performance Gen III/IV engines, it will come with Mobil 1 from the factory. I think the only ones that did not were the 4th gen F-bodys. The Corvette, GTO, etc all came with Mobil.

Either way, I'd go with Mobil 5w30 every 5k miles (if you run it hard) or whenever the DIC if you drive like a pappy.
:werd: These cars come from the factory with Mobil 1 and that is suggested. Ever since 1992, Corvettes have used Mobil 1, hell my '90 ZR-1's manual suggested synthetic, so I figure the engineers who put the car together know better than anyone else, so I'll follow what they said to the letter.
 

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I would like to break in the motor with conventional oil, then change to synthetic, but that all depends on what it comes with from the factory.

Personally I think Mobil 1 5W30 is a little bit thin, so if I run Mobil 1, I'd use 10W30.
I'm looking at other options too, such as Castrol, Royal Purple, and Red Line.
 

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Once upon a time, the machining tolerances in engine building were such that part of the "machining" was actually finished by letting the rough parts scrape against each other to knock off the edges and let surfaces shape to fit each other. Those "rough edges" would literally be captured by the oil and removed at the first oil change. When the new "synthetic" oils first came along (I put that in quotations for a reason, BTW...), it was found that the improved slipperiness could slow down this final burnishing action.

Over the intervening decades, however, milling machines have improved, our understanding of engine design & the physics/chemistry involved have improved, etc.

Internet "common knowledge", however, is a little less tractable...
 

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Tim I run Mobil 1 in my 69 and always have since I rebuilt it back to factory specs.
As for my Black SS I ran Royal purple in it and Loved it 100%
Redline shaves ticks off time slips they say but not enough for the $$$$$$$$.
One Plus about Royal purple if you ever mess something up and water finds its way into the oil supply it totally seperates itself :thumbsup:
Easy clean up and not troubles.... if you have never seen it happen get a glass fill it with Water and pour a spoon full or maybe a little more of RP into the glass stick your hand over the glass and turn upside down , shake it or do what you want it seperates.
Plus it helps on Gas and performance :thumbsup:

I will probably Run mobil 1 but may think about RP dunno yet.
 

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I had that same question with my boat. I was told by my Mastercraft mechanic that you should use conventional oil up front to allow the motor to break in. Then use synthetic oil to preserve that broken in state. If you use synthetic up front you don't get the metallic breakdown that you need for all the moving parts to sync in.
 

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Tim I run Mobil 1 in my 69 and always have since I rebuilt it back to factory specs.
As for my Black SS I ran Royal purple in it and Loved it 100%
Redline shaves ticks off time slips they say but not enough for the $$$$$$$$.
One Plus about Royal purple if you ever mess something up and water finds its way into the oil supply it totally seperates itself :thumbsup:
Easy clean up and not troubles.... if you have never seen it happen get a glass fill it with Water and pour a spoon full or maybe a little more of RP into the glass stick your hand over the glass and turn upside down , shake it or do what you want it seperates.
Plus it helps on Gas and performance :thumbsup:

I will probably Run mobil 1 but may think about RP dunno yet.
^^^ Just as an FYI, this is really not a "Royal Purple thing" -- oil & water are chemically immiscible...
 

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True everyone says that and im aware when they do so however its more noticable with RP. I know this sounds weird/funny/stupid lol but im serious.


I learned about RP from a Rep at the NHRA races and he showed how oil seperates itself from water with normal oils but then did it with RP and it freaked me the hell out.
Never thought with motor problems I would have to run into a clean up but then I did and wow....kind of nice.
 

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True everyone says that and im aware when they do so however its more noticable with RP. I know this sounds weird/funny/stupid lol but im serious.


I learned about RP from a Rep at the NHRA races and he showed how oil seperates itself from water with normal oils but then did it with RP and it freaked me the hell out.
Never thought with motor problems I would have to run into a clean up but then I did and wow....kind of nice.
I suppose it is possible that the more mainstream products compound something within their blend that is miscible with water in order to hold it in suspension until it boils off but I would be surprised. I suspect it is just more visually striking with the RP because of the coloring.

FWIW, water in the oil is part of why it is important that an engine quickly get "up to temp" so that the oil temp is above 212F so that the water boils off right away, and one of the considerations when swapping thermostats (that's an entirely different conversation, on which "Internet wisdom" is rather shaky, too...)
 

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Synthetic is factory fill

The oil that will come in the engine is synthetic & if anything other than synthetic is used, the warranty will be void.
Dealer service departments are instructed to take an oil sample if there is any type of lubrication warranty concern & if the wrong oil is being used, the warranty is void. The lab can tell exactly what oil is used & what metals are wearing internally so don't chance it.
*DO NOT use conventional oil to break the engine in! This is from the golden oldie days.
Plus synthetics do protect the engine much better. That was proven to me during my racing days.
Hope this helps you make the proper decision.
 

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I suppose it is possible that the more mainstream products compound something within their blend that is miscible with water in order to hold it in suspension until it boils off but I would be surprised. I suspect it is just more visually striking with the RP because of the coloring.

FWIW, water in the oil is part of why it is important that an engine quickly get "up to temp" so that the oil temp is above 212F so that the water boils off right away, and one of the considerations when swapping thermostats (that's an entirely different conversation, on which "Internet wisdom" is rather shaky, too...)
I've heard that only crazy people reply to their own posts but I've learned to ignore those voices because they usually give me bad advice... :D

Gave this a bit more thought. I suspect that the difference is additives. I suspect that most motor oils contain a surfactant (like a detergent, for instance, that is intended to prevent sludge/deposits/etc.) but which would have the side-effect of allowing emulsification to take place (basically, tiny dropplets of water surrounded by the surfactant molecules and suspended within the oil.) Further, I suspect RP has no surfactants...

Thanks for making me use my brain a little, DaytonaYellow69ss396! :5go:
 

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True everyone says that and im aware when they do so however its more noticable with RP. I know this sounds weird/funny/stupid lol but im serious.


I learned about RP from a Rep at the NHRA races and he showed how oil seperates itself from water with normal oils but then did it with RP and it freaked me the hell out.
Never thought with motor problems I would have to run into a clean up but then I did and wow....kind of nice.
Funny you should mention RP and water. A guy on another site who tests oils says that RP breaks down to the consistancy of water . He tests UOA's etc from anyone who wish to send it to them and he detests RP.
 
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