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Hi there, I've been looking and looking for suggestions in this forum and have come to the conclusion that every application is different depending on desired outcome. I'm looking for suggestions for Air intake, exhaust, headers, and cams for 2010 SS LS3. My desire? Performance! Sound, I imagine, is a byproduct of quality long tube headers and exhaust anyway. Not really interested in appearance at this point. Any help would be appreciated!!!!
 

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Every application is different depending on how far each person is willing to go as far as warranty, inspection, expense, gas mileage, etc. The three most common mods seem to be cold air intake, LT headers, and custom tune.

For an intake, different brands offer different styles as far as fenderwell, underhood, and over the radiator style. The most popular is made by a company called CAI. Other popular companies include ADM, Vararam, K&N, Spectre, and a few others. JacFab is coming with a new one soon and it looks promising. It might pay off to wait a while for that one. It really depends on what you want. Fenderwell style will put the filter far away from engine heat and the intake temps should be closest to outside temps. But they seem to not perform as well as underhood and OTR style. And you run the possibility of running through a deep puddle and sucking up water. Underhood style makes a lot of hp and tq without any major drawbacks. Mainly based on the design. Just make sure you choose one that is sealed off from the engine bay even when the hood is open and that has a scoop. This will guide the air in better as well as keep the intake temps down. I don't care for this style due to the location of the box. Even tho it is proven to make power, the location seems to be in a less ideal place for picking up extra colder air. Also some brands require you to relocate your windshield washer fluid reservoir to a different location with a different sized container. It isn't a big deal but I didn't want to do that. OTR style is a ram air style. I went with it because I like ram air. Performance gains are similar if not better despite costing about $100 less than the other popular intakes. The benefits of ram air are obvious. You will get a constant supply of air forced into the intake while the vehicle is moving. This will both help increase power and keep intake temps low while moving. It is a direct intake that goes straight into the TB without any restrictions or bend in flow. However you have to lean the radiator back with the Vararam. People don't seem to like doing this despite the fact that it does not affect the cooling system at all.

LT headers are popular for this car because the install is super easy and the performance gains are also great. I'd say stick with either a 1-7/8th inch or 2 inch made out of 304 stainless steel and you'll be fine. All brands will offer good fitment and similar brands regardless of how much the header actually cost. No brand will damage your engine. Stay away from no-name brand headers.

LT headers will require custom tuning to maximize their potential and to avoid AFR issues that could damage your engine. So make sure you find a reputable tuner.

I could go deeper into this but I wrote out an entire explanation a few days ago and I really don't wanna do it again, lol. For referrence you can find it in this section under the topic "Needing help on what headers to buy". And just to let you know, people are very opinionated these days on mods. Soo much so that lies and illogical stories are more prevalent than actual facts. If someone recommends a particular brand or style, find out the reason they recommend it. If they recommend it simply because they bought it and like it then that will tell you nothing. Most people are fools who have no idea what the differences are between one style/brand and another. Knowing the differences, advantages, and disadvantages and choosing something based on that knowledge will go a long way into personalizing your vehicle.
 

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Contact Comp Cams out of Memphis..... :thumbsup:
This! But I would wait until you have decided on the other items first. Technically, the cam is only gonna give you as much as the heads can flow.... But they should get you sorted once you have all the info to give them...
 

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Hi there, I've been looking and looking for suggestions in this forum and have come to the conclusion that every application is different depending on desired outcome. I'm looking for suggestions for Air intake, exhaust, headers, and cams for 2010 SS LS3. My desire? Performance! Sound, I imagine, is a byproduct of quality long tube headers and exhaust anyway. Not really interested in appearance at this point. Any help would be appreciated!!!!

You need to find yourself a tuner. Sit down with him and discuss your goals and budget. You shouldnt make these decisions without the input of an experienced tuner. Intakes are intakes most perform with in a cople HP of each other. avoid the ones with the metal tubes because of heat soak. The big decision with headers is what size to get, if your not doing anything radical 1 7/8 is usually the size of choice. The CAM is a big decision, I am big advocate of custom grind cams, for this your going to need the input of a tuner. After its all done get your self a custom tune and you will have one sweet ride.
 

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What are your performance goals?
Longer term I'm looking to kick some Shelby GT ass. I'll be adding a s/c but that's further down the road. For now I want all the pieces in place to make sure that adding a s/c will be as effective as possible. That answer your question?
 

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Longer term I'm looking to kick some Shelby GT ass. I'll be adding a s/c but that's further down the road. For now I want all the pieces in place to make sure that adding a s/c will be as effective as possible. That answer your question?
If you wanna kick some Shelby ass (2013 Shelby ass) then you are in for a lot of modifications. Just to warn you, they recently tested a 2013 Shelby with the ONLY modification being an oval single blade TB and a canned tune...and the thing made 672 RWHP. Change that to a dyno tune with headers, exhaust, and an intake and that thing will safely make over 700 RWHP. They then tested a 2013 Shelby with a ONLY Kenne Bell 4.2 liter blower and a conversion to E85 and it made 29 lbs of boost, 985 hp, and 971 tq. Now I'm not gonna sit here and sing them praise, but I just want you to know what you're up against, lol!! Those engines are also built with all forged internals. And the OHC block is stronger than an OHV block as well.

So if you're serious about beating Shelby's, then you're looking at a built engine at some point. Because although some claim to be pushing 700+ RWHP on the stock block and stock internals, I doubt it will last very long regardless of how it's tuned. I'd say 600 safely with 650 max if you wanna push things. And even then you're up against VERY strong built engines that can push way past that.

As far as the cam choices. Like others have said you will need to contact your tuner and a good company for the cam. You're not gonna pick a cam off the shelf. Unless it comes in a already designed HCI package. Trickflow makes such a package. But you want a custom made cam. And the choice you make on the cam will have more of an impact on how well tied the engine is than any other component. There are people who even have to change cams depending on boost or other components that they may change. So I'd say save that for last.

Which is why I asked you what your performance goals are. Because nobody should just spit out cam profile numbers to you. So do this. Figure out how much money you wanna spend and what kind of combination you want. There are many different routes depending on compression, cubic inches, boost, etc. If you're gonna build a block with stronger internals then you might as well go stroked. Decide on a compression ratio. Find out what kind of boost you want (centrifugal or twin screw, single turb, twin turb) and how much you will be able to use safely with your compression, fuel, tuning, and internals. Find out what heads you're gonna use. And once you have all that info is when you find out advice on the type of cam you want.

Or if you want you can just ask a vendor which cam they recommend to give you good power for now and then upgrade in the future. But you want cam specs from a pro, not someone like myself or anyone else for that matter. Because your goals will be different from everyone else's.

With that, Lethal Racing, Comp Cams, and Trickflow are one of the cams I would choose. TSP also has cam choices so give them a look.
 

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You mean Shelby GT as in the $40k mustang GT Shelby put his name on in the original S197 bodies, or do you mean the new GT500? If you mean the new GT500, you need to trade your camaro in and get at the least an LS3 powered C6 corvette. The camaro has little hope of running with something that's as capable as the 5.8 GT500.

That being said, most people that can afford them, can't drive them worth a **** so you might get lucky and smoke a wannabe some time, but I'd look for something else to pick on unless you like getting beat...

And btw, are we talking straight line performance or road course stuff? There is a difference...
 

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You mean Shelby GT as in the $40k mustang GT Shelby put his name on in the original S197 bodies, or do you mean the new GT500? If you mean the new GT500, you need to trade your camaro in and get at the least an LS3 powered C6 corvette. The camaro has little hope of running with something that's as capable as the 5.8 GT500.

That being said, most people that can afford them, can't drive them worth a **** so you might get lucky and smoke a wannabe some time, but I'd look for something else to pick on unless you like getting beat...

And btw, are we talking straight line performance or road course stuff? There is a difference...
Oh please a Shelby is a 12 second car, that's hardly unbeatable. Little hope ... Really ????

Op go see tuner, make sure you tell him you want to add FI down the road because that will make a diffrence on cam specs. Taking down a Shelby will require a supercharger. Enjoy
 

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Oh please a Shelby is a 12 second car, that's hardly unbeatable. Little hope ... Really ????

Op go see tuner, make sure you tell him you want to add FI down the road because that will make a diffrence on cam specs. Taking down a Shelby will require a supercharger. Enjoy
It's a 12 second car stock yes. But if the owner mods it, which lots of people do, then it's easily pushing 10s with very little done to the car in general. I'd love to see a 5th gen camaro run 10s without forced induction or cracking into the motor. He'll, full bolt on cars have trouble running high 10s. I'm not hating on the 5th gen, but I'm being realistic. Like Chapel said, 700+hp is still 700+hp. A moderate driver can have that kinda power in the high 10s on drag radials...
 

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Try 11 sec...the convertible is good for under 12 and the hard-top is good for a mid 11. The 2013 Shelby (as in the Shelby GT-500 Cobra) is nothing to under-estimate. Those cars have fully built rock solid 5.8 liter DOHC engines pushing boost from the factory. And they give Vipers and ZR-1 Vettes a hard time...even the ZL-1 got it's lunch taken by the Shelby. And there is a huge difference between Vette owners and GT-500 owners. Vette guys are old, on a mid-life crisis, and won't touch or drive their cars with any aggression. Those dudes will be in the next lane at a red light and drive off like they're in a mini-van on a Sunday drive home from church with the wife and kids. GT-500 owners will totally destroy you without thinking twice about it. They look for hotshots to roast. Those dudes were waiting with as much anticipation as us Camaro lovers for the ZL-1 to come out just so to compare them. A lot of those guys are racers.

Forced induction, and a good amount of it, will get you to what they put out in stock trim. A pulley swap or headers or a custom tune or intake upgrades will likely put them well beyond what your stock block can reliably and safely handle on a daily basis...and they won't even break a sweat. Those are just facts. If you wanna go after those guys, you gotta plan your build. Like I said before, there are some guys boasting 700 RWHP on stock internals. And yes, I do believe it can be done. But you also have to modify your suspension, brakes, clutch, and trans components to keep up with and support that kind of power. And also that block will be on very thin ice at that power. One slip up, whether it's over-revving or bad gas or something with the tune or the slightest detonation, will put that block 6 feet under with the quickness at that level. Trust me, it isn't a Shelby with the most powerful mass produced engine in history if it can be taken out easily.
 

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I have much respect for Shelby. The post I responded to made it sound like the Shelby was untouchable. Camaros can get stroked ... camaros can run 13 lbs of boost ... Few other things to the rear and tranny. Some camaros run in the mid 10's. I've seen camaros in the 9's. yes you have to mod the hell out of them. My tuner has Shelby it's a bad ass ride, runs about the same as mine, we go at it all the time. The biggest factor is driving skills, when push comes to shove you have to be able to launch and good response time off the tree.

I will concede the fact that my car has had a ton more work than the Shelby
 

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I have much respect for Shelby. The post I responded to made it sound like the Shelby was untouchable. Camaros can get stroked ... camaros can run 13 lbs of boost ... Few other things to the rear and tranny. Some camaros run in the mid 10's. I've seen camaros in the 9's. yes you have to mod the hell out of them. My tuner has Shelby it's a bad ass ride, runs about the same as mine, we go at it all the time. The biggest factor is driving skills, when push comes to shove you have to be able to launch and good response time off the tree.

I will concede the fact that my car has had a ton more work than the Shelby
You've got an impressive list of mods there BTW! What're you running in the quarter?!
 

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My best so far this year is 11.4 ... Not real happy with that. The motor/tranny/rear has been being built for the past 10 months. been busy this past winter. So I'm not used to the clutch, and my timing is off due to switching gear ratios. Have trouble getting my IAT's down, I'm advanced by about 18 degrees of timing but giving back 6 to 8 of it. My tuner (also my track buddy ) is furious with my times. I should be in the mid tens. I will be there within the month or die trying. Lol
 

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Try 11 sec...the convertible is good for under 12 and the hard-top is good for a mid 11. The 2013 Shelby (as in the Shelby GT-500 Cobra) is nothing to under-estimate. Those cars have fully built rock solid 5.8 liter DOHC engines pushing boost from the factory. And they give Vipers and ZR-1 Vettes a hard time...even the ZL-1 got it's lunch taken by the Shelby. And there is a huge difference between Vette owners and GT-500 owners. Vette guys are old, on a mid-life crisis, and won't touch or drive their cars with any aggression. Those dudes will be in the next lane at a red light and drive off like they're in a mini-van on a Sunday drive home from church with the wife and kids. GT-500 owners will totally destroy you without thinking twice about it. They look for hotshots to roast. Those dudes were waiting with as much anticipation as us Camaro lovers for the ZL-1 to come out just so to compare them. A lot of those guys are racers.

Forced induction, and a good amount of it, will get you to what they put out in stock trim. A pulley swap or headers or a custom tune or intake upgrades will likely put them well beyond what your stock block can reliably and safely handle on a daily basis...and they won't even break a sweat. Those are just facts. If you wanna go after those guys, you gotta plan your build. Like I said before, there are some guys boasting 700 RWHP on stock internals. And yes, I do believe it can be done. But you also have to modify your suspension, brakes, clutch, and trans components to keep up with and support that kind of power. And also that block will be on very thin ice at that power. One slip up, whether it's over-revving or bad gas or something with the tune or the slightest detonation, will put that block 6 feet under with the quickness at that level. Trust me, it isn't a Shelby with the most powerful mass produced engine in history if it can be taken out easily.
I think you are thinking of typical vette drivers. The few I know around here are diehard gear heads and mod the **** out of their cars and won't back down from a good race. Hell, I almost bought a vette myself (LS3 manual C6) but think I could live with it like I can live with my camaro.

And as for the GT500 drivers all being diehard racers, I know just as many guys that own them here that don't race or even drive fast as I do that actually do race and drive hard. It's about the same around here between vettes and Shelbys. But one thing I have noticed, MOST GT500 drivers here can't drive their cars worth a crap; they rely on power instead of driver skill to make them fast.
 
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